Thanks to Amazon Prime, I received the load resistors I needed to finish up my LED conversion for the external lights on my Compass. As promised, here is a little writeup on the process, including a blurb on the reverse lights that were replaced earlier. First thing to mention, is that the owners manual does go over the bulb type and descriptions on how to remove and install all of the external bulbs. Verify in your manual on how to remove and install the light assemblies.
I'll do these first. Getting to these is quite simple. on the hatch plastic, you'll find a little access panel to get to the bulb socket. As with all things FCA, this was really designed to be somewhat obnoxious, so just remove the assembly and bench swap the bulb. The panel pops off the plastic with a firm-ish tug on the GLASS side of the panel. Don't do what I did and pull on the bottom side, or you'll end up with what I did, and damage the piece:
Upon removal, this will expose a grey connector to the light assembly that is easily disconnected with a push tab on the connector. Once done, you can simply remove the light by removing three 10mm nuts, two exposed on the hatch body, the third inside the access hole. From there the light easily pops out of the hatch with a bit of gentle jiggling.
Once the assembly is in hand, you twist the black cap over the bulb counter-clockwise to remove. Note: Mine were rather tight and required careful use of a pair of pliers to turn. Be cautious if yours require the same. It did not require me to clamp hard on the connector with the pliers, only just to give a bit of added leverage.
The bulb in these is NOT on the CANNBUS system, so this will be a direct plug and play. Bulb clearance IS an issue, so make sure you buy something that will clear. I bought the following, and they fit, just barely:
Anything that is taller than these WILL NOT FIT inside the housing.
Brake/Turn signal bulb:
These ARE on the CANNBUS computer. I recommend finding a bulb with the resistors included inside the bulb assembly. The ones I bought, the link made it sound like they were, but turned out not to be. Read their descriptions carefully, or you'll be either having to buy a pre-made load resistor harness, or wire clip into factory wiring - the latter of which will VOID your warranty on the electrical for the wiring to the tail lights. To avoid this and account for the lack of built in resistors, I bought the pre-made harness.
This is where things get fun. The brake light assembly is held in place by two T-27 torques bit bolts. They are recessed into the housing. You pop open two little covers by slipping a fingernail or small flat blade screwdriver to flip them open. They're hinged onto the assembly, so don't try to remove them.
From here, you pull the light away from the body by hooking a finger inside one of those holes and pulling BACK, not to the side. The fixture on the body has a couple of bulb-tabs that secure into sockets in the body.
There is another pinch tab wiring connector on the side of the housing that you can remove so you can bench swap the bulb.
The bulb, like the reverse lights are a counter clockwise turn to remove. These were much easier to open than the reverse lights, so tool persuasion shouldn't be needed.
Simply pull the bulb out of the socket and plug the bulb side of the load resistor assembly into the housing, and the connector side of it into the factory connector. These assemblies are a "universal fit" type, meaning they universally don't fit anything correctly. As such, mine are a bit loose in the light socket hole, but don't feel like they're going to fall out. By the time you tuck all the extra wiring into the space in the body between it and the housing, they aren't going to move anyway.
I tucked the resistors down inside between the bumper and body trying my best to insure that they weren't resting on plastic. They get hot, so use caution that you don't damage the plastic bumper from heat. I then set the assembly loose in it's space and tested prior to reattaching it to the vehicle.
Making sure all the wiring is neatly tucked around the inside of the car body and light assembly, simply push the light back into place, letting the ball tabs seat into their sockets. From there, screw the two bolts back in. A trick I used to account for the crappy access to them, was to stuff a bit of paper towel into the acess hole below the screw hole.
This prevents our old enemy Murphy from making the screw fall down inside the housing, and forcing you to pull the whole mess back apart again to fish out the dropped bolt. Keep a magnetized screwdriver handy to fish out the bolt if necessary. Once the bolt is threaded a few turns, pull out the paper to use in the next hole.
The bulbs I used and the load resistors can be had via Amazon as well: