TSB 08-095-18 Is this the fix for our drivetrain issues? - Page 2 - Jeep Compass Forum
 19Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
post #31 of 106 Old 08-08-2018, 12:07 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
Gheese! That is complex contraption. Reminds me of the turbo encabulator: (You'll have to do a websearch for that. I'm new so I can't post links yet.) Isn't technology wonderful!?!?
Jasmine is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 106 Old 08-08-2018, 01:48 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 664
 
Ah yes, a true classic, the turbo encabulator:

arudlang is online now  
post #33 of 106 Old 08-09-2018, 02:35 AM
Senior Member
 
joninpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Northampton County, PA
Posts: 136
 
scheduled for next week and will specifically tell them this bulletin. going to get the grumble looked at, the phantom a/c gremlin that likes to put the heat on 82įF, and the miserable back-up camera lagging next week. Hopefully they don't keep it more than a day or I'm demanding a loaner.

'18 Compass 4x4 Sport 6-speed manual
joninpa is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #34 of 106 Old 08-09-2018, 03:52 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 47
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by joninpa View Post
scheduled for next week and will specifically tell them this bulletin. going to get the grumble looked at, the phantom a/c gremlin that likes to put the heat on 82įF, and the miserable back-up camera lagging next week. Hopefully they don't keep it more than a day or I'm demanding a loaner.
You shouldn't have to demand anything. FCA policy is if it's warranty work, and they will have it over 4 hours you are automatically entitled to a loaner.
Chris_84045 is offline  
post #35 of 106 Old 08-09-2018, 01:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
Ah yes, a true classic, the turbo encabulator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag
Thanks for posting!

First spawned by a British graduate student in the 1940s.

At one time General Electric put a couple pages about it (complete with illustrations) in their service manual!
Jasmine is offline  
post #36 of 106 Old 08-15-2018, 11:59 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
 
Should this upgrade be free/included in our warranty or does the dealer charge us? The dealer said it would cost me $110 to flash/upgrade my 2018 Compass.
bullard120 is offline  
post #37 of 106 Old 08-16-2018, 12:31 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 340
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullard120 View Post
Should this upgrade be free/included in our warranty or does the dealer charge us? The dealer said it would cost me $110 to flash/upgrade my 2018 Compass.
It should be free. I would never go to a dealer that tried get money for fixing the software on a car that is under warranty. Its not like you are asking them to upgrade/activate a new feature, you are asking them to fix a bad software which would be covered by the warranty. Call or email Mopar or FCA and complain, that is unacceptable.

Last edited by Tripod; 08-16-2018 at 12:35 AM.
Tripod is online now  
post #38 of 106 Old 08-16-2018, 02:46 PM
Senior Member
 
mdram4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: ES of Md
Posts: 229
 
Garage
when i had an issue with a dealer in the past, i just schedule the visit with chrylser/mopar/ect direct

dealers may not like it, but have to do what corporate says

no wonder that dealer is no longer around

2018 Compass Latitude
mdram4x4 is offline  
post #39 of 106 Old 08-18-2018, 02:30 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 128
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by joninpa View Post
scheduled for next week and will specifically tell them this bulletin. going to get the grumble looked at, the phantom a/c gremlin that likes to put the heat on 82įF, and the miserable back-up camera lagging next week. Hopefully they don't keep it more than a day or I'm demanding a loaner.
What makes you think that demanding a loaner is going to get you one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_84045 View Post
You shouldn't have to demand anything. FCA policy is if it's warranty work, and they will have it over 4 hours you are automatically entitled to a loaner.
Care to post your source? Because FCA has told me otherwise. Dealerships have to give loaners for recalls, but not warranty work.
dannydeez is offline  
post #40 of 106 Old 08-18-2018, 04:09 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 340
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannydeez View Post
What makes you think that demanding a loaner is going to get you one?



Care to post your source? Because FCA has told me otherwise. Dealerships have to give loaners for recalls, but not warranty work.
They should give you loaner or cover the rental car cost. I got loaners for warranty work couple of times.
Tripod is online now  
post #41 of 106 Old 08-18-2018, 04:31 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 128
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripod View Post
They should give you loaner or cover the rental car cost. I got loaners for warranty work couple of times.


Yes they should, but thereís nothing that says they have to. If your dealer is providing that for you then youíre lucky. Jeep is the only brand Iíve ever owned that doesnít provide loaners as standard policy.

Iím done with them and Iíll likely be getting rid of this car around this time next year.
dannydeez is offline  
post #42 of 106 Old 08-18-2018, 04:42 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 340
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannydeez View Post
Yes they should, but there’s nothing that says they have to. If your dealer is providing that for you then you’re lucky. Jeep is the only brand I’ve ever owned that doesn’t provide loaners as standard policy.

I’m done with them and I’ll likely be getting rid of this car around this time next year.
I checked the warranty and you are right. I have the maximum care extended warranty which covers loaners or rentals, so that might be the reason why I got one.
Tripod is online now  
post #43 of 106 Old 08-18-2018, 08:54 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
If the service dept. won't loan you vehicle then talk to your sale rep. Mine even tells me to ask him. "I'll hang a plate on something for you." I don't waste the privilege on an oil change, but if they're going to be all day at it, I'll ask. Also, service departments often are glad to loan you something because it takes the pressure off their schedule -- it allows them to take care of someone who has an urgent repair and I can do my work and come back later.
Jasmine is offline  
post #44 of 106 Old 08-19-2018, 10:46 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 47
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannydeez View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by joninpa View Post
scheduled for next week and will specifically tell them this bulletin. going to get the grumble looked at, the phantom a/c gremlin that likes to put the heat on 82įF, and the miserable back-up camera lagging next week. Hopefully they don't keep it more than a day or I'm demanding a loaner.
What makes you think that demanding a loaner is going to get you one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_84045 View Post
You shouldn't have to demand anything. FCA policy is if it's warranty work, and they will have it over 4 hours you are automatically entitled to a loaner.
Care to post your source? Because FCA has told me otherwise. Dealerships have to give loaners for recalls, but not warranty work.
When I took the kids trailhawk in they tried to tell me they wouldn't give me a loaner becuase they were only going to need it for 3 hours, and Jeep's policy was it had to be 4 hours. I talked to my sales guy and he got me loaner anyway..
Chris_84045 is offline  
post #45 of 106 Old 08-20-2018, 12:42 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_84045 View Post
When I took the kids trailhawk in they tried to tell me they wouldn't give me a loaner becuase they were only going to need it for 3 hours, and Jeep's policy was it had to be 4 hours. I talked to my sales guy and he got me loaner anyway..
That works!
Jasmine is offline  
post #46 of 106 Old 08-27-2018, 01:32 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 6
 
Thumbs up DTCM SOfware Update Working (so far)!

I had my 2018 Compass in for it's first oil change this past Saturday. I too had been experiencing that low "grumble/drone" sound at 35 mph and above. When I told that to my service tech, he told me that a software update had been issued for this. I am happy to report after driving it for a few days, it seems like that issue has been completely resolved! He also said another Compass customer had the software update on their vehicle, and it resolved the issue for them too. There are other Compass owners with upcoming appointments getting this same software update. My suggestion if you are experiencing this, is to get it in for this update. Fingers crossed, it continues to operate smoothly. My only other compalint with my 2018 Compass is that the engine noise seems awfully loud for a modern vehicle. Must be the small engine working hard.
Jeep_Scheetz is offline  
post #47 of 106 Old 08-27-2018, 09:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 664
 
Yep, I have not heard the continuous humming sound since the update either. I still hear sounds, the PTU and the RDM still occasionally can be heard going in and out of engagement but when they do they seem to just do it immediately (within 1 second or so), they don't spend any time in the in-between phase where the humming was audible previously. Several hundred miles in and no other issues (knock on wood). I still am not convinced the humming was an indication of any particular issue but I don't mind it being quieter overall in its operation.

Like Sheetz said its mainly just the motor now we listen to. For all the fanciness that went into the double-wall insulated oil pain and engine cover to reduce noise and mounting the exhaust towards the front to further reduce noise its amazing how much it shakes at idle, really surprised they cheaped out or overlooked the motor mounts as such and couldn't get the motor itself balanced better but "oh well".
arudlang is online now  
post #48 of 106 Old 08-28-2018, 01:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
For all the fanciness that went into the double-wall insulated oil pain and engine cover to reduce noise and mounting the exhaust towards the front to further reduce noise its amazing how much it shakes at idle, really surprised they cheaped out or overlooked the motor mounts as such and couldn't get the motor itself balanced better but "oh well".
Mine does not shake at idle. Maybe you've got a cylinder misfiring?
Jasmine is offline  
post #49 of 106 Old 08-28-2018, 07:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 664
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasmine
Maybe you've got a cylinder misfiring?
Shake might be an overly harsh word for it, quiver perhaps more accurate but either way its just a lot rougher idling and less vibration isolation than I would expect from a modern up to date car & engine. There is certainly no cylinder misfiring though, these modern computer controlled engines know the instant a single combustion cycle has gone awry and the check engine light would be on in a heartbeat. I'm certain its just a factor of cheap, hard motor/transmission mounts and a roughness at idle that probably comes from them tuning it down to the bare minimum amount of RPM and fuel usage at idle it can possibly run at and not stall.

If a person had never owned or driven something more premium before they would likely not realize how much smoother and better isolated other manufacturers manage to make their engines at idle, even other 4 cylinders (thinking of BMW) but alas, this is no beamer. I like to call it my poor man's land rover but emphasis on the "poor"
arudlang is online now  
post #50 of 106 Old 08-30-2018, 12:42 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Northeast Tennessee Tricities
Posts: 265
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
Shake might be an overly harsh word for it, quiver perhaps more accurate but either way its just a lot rougher idling and less vibration isolation than I would expect from a modern up to date car & engine. There is certainly no cylinder misfiring though, these modern computer controlled engines know the instant a single combustion cycle has gone awry and the check engine light would be on in a heartbeat. I'm certain it's just a factor of cheap, hard motor/transmission mounts and a roughness at idle that probably comes from them tuning it down to the bare minimum amount of RPM and fuel usage at idle it can possibly run at and not stall.

If a person had never owned or driven something more premium before they would likely not realize how much smoother and better isolated other manufacturers manage to make their engines at idle, even other 4 cylinders (thinking of BMW) but alas, this is no beamer. I like to call it my poor man's land rover but emphasis on the "poor"

I picked up on it pretty quick but early on it was much smoother then after the ECM reflash they did with this TSB it got smooth again for a while. I think part of it is as you suggest with the engine and transmission mounts. I can't help to feel like the multi-air is playing a role as well. In our case the ECM might be tuning the valve lift and timing to favor power from off idle and sacrificing engine smoothness in return. For about 2 days after they monkeyed around with the ECM ours idiled smoother but it was like it had to relearn how we drive. It got just a bit better MPG but shift points and shift kickdown were all off. Now it is back to running like itself and back into its bit lower MPG.

Like you I'm hearing all the PTU working and doing it's thing now every now and then with a slight rumble for just a split second that sounds and feels like the rear driveshaft either spooling up or down much better than before for sure. Only side effect up to this point 1400 mile after this TSB was done has been slight front wheel spin under certain situations. Like accelerating from a red light in wet conditions and running over the thick painted stop line or making a hard turn in wet conditions being heavy on the throttle.

One of the plus sides is the Jeep feels a lighter on the twisty roads. Our Jeep before the TSB felt like a part time 4x4 being driven in 4wd when you hit curves that had better road conditions than the rest of the road you were driving on. It was not binding but felt too tight I thought it was just how they had the AWD part set up. Now it is much more relaxing and fun to drive which is great as it was pretty darn great to start with!
arudlang likes this.

Last edited by Chris Jacobs; 08-31-2018 at 12:19 AM. Reason: Meant to say 1400 not 4k! lol
Chris Jacobs is offline  
post #51 of 106 Old 08-30-2018, 12:52 PM
Senior Member
 
joninpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Northampton County, PA
Posts: 136
 
i had the service bulletin update done 2 weeks ago...

and i still hear the noise. It's no longer between 35-40 mph like it was before.

now it occurs above 45 mph.

It is harder to hear because of greater road noise/engine noise but it is definitely still there.

Unless there is an actual problem with this, I am not going to bring it in to the Jeep dealer, as dealerships are the WORST. The last thing I need is them gutting the Jeep and destroying my brand-new vehicle so they can justify service hours needlessly and bill warranty.

side note- they didn't give me a loaner, they said it would be only a few hours, with a 8:30 AM appt. they had me drop the jeep off the night before. They never called the next day, I called them two hours before closing and the receptionist was just transferring me to voicemails. After I had to call three times to talk to a person who knew about the problem I brought it in for. They said they did the update and I picked it up later that day. Anyways, I missed an entire day of work (thinking it would only take a few hours I hadn't called in), instead of a half-day. Pretty pissed, but I expect it as dealerships have the worst repair bureaucracy established so they can hire a bunch of worthless people who are not actually fixing cars.

'18 Compass 4x4 Sport 6-speed manual
joninpa is offline  
post #52 of 106 Old 08-30-2018, 12:54 PM
Senior Member
 
mdram4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: ES of Md
Posts: 229
 
Garage
some dealers are bad, some are good. its just the way things all. its the same with all brands
Chris Jacobs likes this.

2018 Compass Latitude
mdram4x4 is offline  
post #53 of 106 Old 08-31-2018, 10:38 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3
 
I have had the update done and it has made the 35-40mph noise much quieter. I can still here it when it comes on. BUT, the big change came at 50MPH. Now at 50 MPH the same noise that was at 35-40MPH comes on. So the update has moved the noise from 35MPH to 50 MPH. Also now at a cruising spet of 67-74MPH there is a very loud humming noise that can not be drowned out with the radio. BUT, that is not all that has change from the latest update to my 2018 jeep compass limited 4x4. I now have a rear end hop every time I go over a large bump, pot hole. manhole cover. If I hit one of these blemishes in the road my rear of the car will shift mainly to the right. But if i hit a manhole on the left side then it will shift to the left. The best way I can describe the feeling is if you are driving around a long sweeping the curve and you hit a bump in the road you can feel the wheel hop. The service center that I was at has listed on the write-up "Vehicle not Fixed".

Jeep customer case manager told me that there is no fix for my vehicle. I am going to have to live with the vehicle as it is and if I wanted to take action than I have to follow the lemon law manual that was provided with my vehicle. I love my jeep but I dont like how the FCA is not standing behind there product. Now, I can not get a hold of anyone from FCA to discuss any options. Its unfortunate. FCA is going to loose a 20 year loyalist to a pour customer service.
Branch16 is offline  
post #54 of 106 Old 08-31-2018, 03:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 664
 
Sounds like you simply need an alignment done, @Branch16
arudlang is online now  
post #55 of 106 Old 08-31-2018, 03:32 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by joninpa View Post
i had the service bulletin update done 2 weeks ago...

and i still hear the noise. It's no longer between 35-40 mph like it was before.

now it occurs above 45 mph.

It is harder to hear because of greater road noise/engine noise but it is definitely still there.
Also my experience. I had the update done and at first I thought the groaning was gone, but now I hear it at higher speeds, i.e. 40+. As above, at higher speeds there is more road noise so the sound is less noticeable. I can eliminate it by moving the autostick to manual. As soon as I do I can hear the drone just drop and go away -- obviously something has stopped turning when this happens. The other thing is I can turn off the ESC. Again, I can hear whatever is making the noise slow down and stop.

So I've learned how to control/stop the groan, but what is it that I'm shutting off in manual mode or by turning ESC off?
Anyone have an idea what could be causing this in our Compasses?

Also, is there any harm in turning the ESC off? I could care less about the safety device -- for years I drove without ESC even existing.
Jasmine is offline  
post #56 of 106 Old 08-31-2018, 07:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 664
 
When you go into autostick or turn ESC off you basically disable 2WD and force it into all-time AWD. We have long suspected the sound comes from a partially engaged or partially disengaged rear drive since the engagement of the rear axles can be varied in the differential from 0 to 50% (of engine power, ie in snow mode the split is supposed to be 60% front 40% rear), and the PTU (power take-off) is just on/off. So, it might be for instance that the PTU is engaged in the front (dog clutch, all or nothing) but then perhaps the variable clutch in the RDM (Rear Drive Module / Differential) is at low or no engagement, in this scenario the unloaded spinning driveshaft could be producing harmonic vibrations or perhaps free spinning unloaded gear assemblies in the differential itself could be doing the same thing. This whole theory could work in reverse too, that possibly the RDM is at least partially engaging its variable clutch causing the driveshaft to spin but say its not actually "hooked up" (front PTU not engaged) then once again a driveshaft or gear assembly spinning without actual load on it could cause the harmonic vibrations. Yet another possibility is that the variable clutch itself simply makes the slight vibration/noise when its say 50% or less engaged, as a result of letting slip some of the power being sent rearwards by the driveshaft.

Any way you dice it, it seems to be a minor side effect of a variable disconnecting rear drive system. The conditions that cause it vary as the system itself (in normal auto mode) uses a combination of factors to decide when it is appropriate to switch to 2WD to try to save you some gas. It tries hard to predict in advance when AWD/4WD is going to be needed and it has to because of the usage of a dog clutch up front, to smoothly engage that requires the driveshaft to be matched to the speed of the PTU's input otherwise you will get a nasty clunk. As it is you probably notice a minor "thunk" when you surprise it by throwing it into autostick or 4x4 while driving at speed, it has no way to predict that so as fast as it can it has to engage the rear clutch to put some speed into the driveshaft and slam the teeth of the dog clutch into place so you can have AWD in a little less than half a second.

Its a high speed system that only dips its toes into 2WD when all the conditions are just right and even then, it wants to be ready to switch back to AWD at a split-second's notice. The minor amount of humming and clicking and such that goes with it is no big deal to me, it just means the system is doing its best to give be the best possible mileage and traction performance.

---

Yes, there is harm is turning ESC off. So much so that pressing the button momentarily actually is only what they call "Partial off" (in the four wheel drive models). Turning it completely off requires some more specific steps and can only be done at a stop, and event THAT turns itself back on partially once you go over 15 MPH again. The ESC gives you traction control assist, stability assist, panic braking assist, etc and all of these things make the vehicle safer to drive. Turning these features off as a matter of regular habit is a foolish thing to do. I can say that now because I'm old and wise enough... I used to have a hot-rod honda in which it was my second nature to hop it, twist the key and pop the traction control button to OFF. I didn't like the car cutting the power when I dumped the clutch or drove aggressively. Even then, young and dumb as I was, I was smart enough to turn traction control back on during a long highway cruise.

There is no legitimate argument for regularily turning ESC off (to avoid the humming sound) when the information available suggests
1) That the sound is normal operating noises that are nothing to worry about in the first place, and
2) That you would be putting the safety of yourself, your passengers, and others around you at increased risk of injury or death, and
3) You can accomplish the same GD thing by just popping the 4x4 button...

Seriously, this paranoia over barely detectable humming sounds has got to stop. With all the clunks and bangs and thuds, clicks, humms, pops, snaps, and whirrs that go with driving I am astounded that anyone picks up on this tiny background sound at all.
arudlang is online now  
post #57 of 106 Old 09-01-2018, 12:22 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
When you go into autostick or turn ESC off you basically disable 2WD and force it into all-time AWD. We have long suspected the sound comes from a partially engaged or partially disengaged rear drive since the engagement of the rear axles can be varied in the differential from 0 to 50% (of engine power, ie in snow mode the split is supposed to be 60% front 40% rear), and the PTU (power take-off) is just on/off. So, it might be for instance that the PTU is engaged in the front (dog clutch, all or nothing) but then perhaps the variable clutch in the RDM (Rear Drive Module / Differential) is at low or no engagement, in this scenario the unloaded spinning driveshaft could be producing harmonic vibrations or perhaps free spinning unloaded gear assemblies in the differential itself could be doing the same thing. This whole theory could work in reverse too, that possibly the RDM is at least partially engaging its variable clutch causing the driveshaft to spin but say its not actually "hooked up" (front PTU not engaged) then once again a driveshaft or gear assembly spinning without actual load on it could cause the harmonic vibrations. Yet another possibility is that the variable clutch itself simply makes the slight vibration/noise when its say 50% or less engaged, as a result of letting slip some of the power being sent rearwards by the driveshaft.

Any way you dice it, it seems to be a minor side effect of a variable disconnecting rear drive system. The conditions that cause it vary as the system itself (in normal auto mode) uses a combination of factors to decide when it is appropriate to switch to 2WD to try to save you some gas. It tries hard to predict in advance when AWD/4WD is going to be needed and it has to because of the usage of a dog clutch up front, to smoothly engage that requires the driveshaft to be matched to the speed of the PTU's input otherwise you will get a nasty clunk. As it is you probably notice a minor "thunk" when you surprise it by throwing it into autostick or 4x4 while driving at speed, it has no way to predict that so as fast as it can it has to engage the rear clutch to put some speed into the driveshaft and slam the teeth of the dog clutch into place so you can have AWD in a little less than half a second.

Its a high speed system that only dips its toes into 2WD when all the conditions are just right and even then, it wants to be ready to switch back to AWD at a split-second's notice. The minor amount of humming and clicking and such that goes with it is no big deal to me, it just means the system is doing its best to give be the best possible mileage and traction performance.

---

Yes, there is harm is turning ESC off. So much so that pressing the button momentarily actually is only what they call "Partial off" (in the four wheel drive models). Turning it completely off requires some more specific steps and can only be done at a stop, and event THAT turns itself back on partially once you go over 15 MPH again. The ESC gives you traction control assist, stability assist, panic braking assist, etc and all of these things make the vehicle safer to drive. Turning these features off as a matter of regular habit is a foolish thing to do. I can say that now because I'm old and wise enough... I used to have a hot-rod honda in which it was my second nature to hop it, twist the key and pop the traction control button to OFF. I didn't like the car cutting the power when I dumped the clutch or drove aggressively. Even then, young and dumb as I was, I was smart enough to turn traction control back on during a long highway cruise.

There is no legitimate argument for regularily turning ESC off (to avoid the humming sound) when the information available suggests
1) That the sound is normal operating noises that are nothing to worry about in the first place, and
2) That you would be putting the safety of yourself, your passengers, and others around you at increased risk of injury or death, and
3) You can accomplish the same GD thing by just popping the 4x4 button...

Seriously, this paranoia over barely detectable humming sounds has got to stop. With all the clunks and bangs and thuds, clicks, humms, pops, snaps, and whirrs that go with driving I am astounded that anyone picks up on this tiny background sound at all.
The safety concerns don't bother me. As I said above, I drove for 25+ years without ESC and never needed it.

As for the "barely detectable" humming noise, it reminds me of the noise the tranny in my '86 Buick made just before it failed. I've had wheel bearings go out that didn't sound as bad. Now that my dealer has raised the speed at which the noise occurs it is masked by the road noise so it doesn't seem quite as loud. If I was running snow tires or A/T tires I probably wouldn't hear it at all. Or as the car guys used to advise, maybe I should just play the radio louder. I'm thinking if I tune in a football game and really crank up the sound, the crowd noise would probably cover it. All fixed.

Seriously, there are two things that have me worried about this vehicle:
1) This grinding noise that shouldn't be there, and 2) The oil consumption issue.

The oil consumption isn't alarming. Its about the same as my old Patriot at 300,000 miles. It was acceptable for an engine that old. I fully realize an engine uses oil up to 10,000 miles, but I'm past 9,000 so I'm getting concerned. I had my oil changed yesterday and between last night and today I've been 400 miles and I'm showing down 1/2 quart. I didn't check to see if my dealer shorted me, but I know where the oil level is now. I'll check again after the weekend and if its down another 1/2 quart I'll know I've got a problem.

These problems may be "normal" for what they make, but its not "normal" for vehicles I want to own. I hope this vehicle doesn't turn into a bad experience, but I'm concerned. I dumped my new '93 Cherokee after 6 months of owning it because the clutch wasn't right. It was in 4 times in those 6 months and I went to a GM dealer and for 3 more payments I traded for a vehicle that went 140,000 trouble free miles. I kept on buying GM after that until they stopped making Pontiacs and my dealer switched to Chrysler products. I'm not afraid of switching back to GM if this doesn't improve.

That said, I'm not upset with my dealer. They have to work with what they've got. However, I'm wishing I'd bought a year-old Patriot for about the same price as my Compass. The rebates made the Compass look like a bargain. Now I'm not so sure.

Last edited by Jasmine; 09-01-2018 at 12:28 AM.
Jasmine is offline  
post #58 of 106 Old 09-01-2018, 04:33 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Northeast Tennessee Tricities
Posts: 265
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasmine View Post
The safety concerns don't bother me. As I said above, I drove for 25+ years without ESC and never needed it.

As for the "barely detectable" humming noise, it reminds me of the noise the tranny in my '86 Buick made just before it failed. I've had wheel bearings go out that didn't sound as bad. Now that my dealer has raised the speed at which the noise occurs it is masked by the road noise so it doesn't seem quite as loud. If I was running snow tires or A/T tires I probably wouldn't hear it at all. Or as the car guys used to advise, maybe I should just play the radio louder. I'm thinking if I tune in a football game and really crank up the sound, the crowd noise would probably cover it. All fixed.

Seriously, there are two things that have me worried about this vehicle:
1) This grinding noise that shouldn't be there, and 2) The oil consumption issue.

The oil consumption isn't alarming. Its about the same as my old Patriot at 300,000 miles. It was acceptable for an engine that old. I fully realize an engine uses oil up to 10,000 miles, but I'm past 9,000 so I'm getting concerned. I had my oil changed yesterday and between last night and today I've been 400 miles and I'm showing down 1/2 quart. I didn't check to see if my dealer shorted me, but I know where the oil level is now. I'll check again after the weekend and if its down another 1/2 quart I'll know I've got a problem.

These problems may be "normal" for what they make, but its not "normal" for vehicles I want to own. I hope this vehicle doesn't turn into a bad experience, but I'm concerned. I dumped my new '93 Cherokee after 6 months of owning it because the clutch wasn't right. It was in 4 times in those 6 months and I went to a GM dealer and for 3 more payments I traded for a vehicle that went 140,000 trouble free miles. I kept on buying GM after that until they stopped making Pontiacs and my dealer switched to Chrysler products. I'm not afraid of switching back to GM if this doesn't improve.

That said, I'm not upset with my dealer. They have to work with what they've got. However, I'm wishing I'd bought a year-old Patriot for about the same price as my Compass. The rebates made the Compass look like a bargain. Now I'm not so sure.

It does not bother me to turn off the nanny ware in these things either! I actually own an 03 Tracker that does not even have ABS on it and is still rocking crank up windows and love it. But push a Compass hard even with the ESC partly off and you would still feel it politely tug on your shirt sleeve and say it was still there and was not going to let you have too much fun. In fact one complaint on these things and the Renegade is even partly off it is very hard to induce some fun rotation even in slick mud!

My feelings about the ESC being turned partly off is different than arudlang's including in the feel and effect. Before getting this update not only did I have the dreaded noise it was pretty loud at times requiring the anti-hum/groan attenuator (radio) to be cranked up pretty high to drown it out. Turning the ESC partly off not only killed the noise but the Compass became much lighter feeling when running and pushing it a bit on these twisty mountain roads. It felt like it had become more 2wd oriented now AWD or 4wd. I always felt from day one it felt a bit tight very much like how an engaged part time system would feel if you hit a part of road in a curve that had good grip. Now after this fix that is much closer to how our Jeep felt with the ESC turned partly off.

As for the reason I'm becoming a bit more convinced one of two things might be going on. First it is possible that it is being created by driving habit. These thing have the ability to learn and adapt very well to how the driver wants it it behave. It is possible in this a software conflict is being generated when the Jeep tries to make changes to try to give the driver what it sees the driver wants and it makes certain changes to the programing. This software fix may be just the first to change or lock out certain parameters that are causing this issue.

The other thing my mind keeps going to is metal shavings from the rear diff breaking in causing issues in the rear PTU clutches not allowing for the rear driveshaft to get a complete disconnect. As arudlang pointed out this unloaded spinning driveshaft spinning when it should not be could generate a harmonic. The rear driveshaft has a support bearing mounted right where I feel like this noise is generated from. At that point the cabin itself amplifies the noise and makes it sound much worse than the situation is. In fact I could see where my dealer before getting this whole TSB situation resolved had pulled the fill plug on the rear diff my guess they thought is was low or out of oil so their thoughts on this were focused on the RDU/PTU. The software fix may loosen up the clutch pack and allow for a cleaner disconnect. This would explain why I am seeing wheel spin on wet pavement at times when it never did this before the TSB fix. I can feel the power coming in on the rear quickly and stopping the front tires from spinning. I have not had it kill power while this is going on like you expect from the traction control kicking in acceleration remains strong throughout the short lived event with no drama.

I'm still hearing the noise off and on but most of the time it comes and goes very quickly and it sounds and feels like the rear driveshaft spooling either up or down. Sometimes the noise comes in and the pitch increases then stops other times it starts a little loud then pitch decreases till the sound fades away. In certain conditions though I have heard it linger but much quieter at speeds up to 70 MPH. Today it was most noticeable driving around 55 on the interstate in a downpour. I think the system was picking up on some hydroplaning and was working hard to keep traction as high as possible. Very quickly as soon as road conditions improved the noise stopped. To me driving many different 4wd,auto 4wd and AWD vehicles this is how I expect the system to work and sound.

I your situation If the noise moved in speed and is still nothing you I would talk to the dealership about repeating the process of the TSB and maybe even looking at you rear PTU/RDU just to make sure there is no secondary issue there.

I too moved to mainly GM for years and they all served us very well. If GM had something that was any sort of real competition to the Compass we would have had to really consider it. But they have nothing in the price and MPG range with anywhere near the capabilities of the Compass. GM also like most automakers have made their vehicles overly complex and ECM controlled these days. At least with Mopar you can purchase a lifetime unlimited warranty that gets great reviews. So if something happens to all this over complicated junk they will fix it. I'm to the point with all this computer and over complicated crap that I'm seriously thinking about selling everything I own but the Compass and buying an old school carbureted YJ with a manual or something along those lines for me to drive. If those things break out on the trail some bailing wire and duck tape is all you likely need to limp it back home!
Jasmine likes this.
Chris Jacobs is offline  
post #59 of 106 Old 09-01-2018, 12:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Two locations in NH: One near Concord, the other at the 45th.
Posts: 578
 
I still have my doubts about how sensitive the ESC is. Having driven a FWD Patriot in snow for 10 years I learned early on that a wheel must have significant slippage before the ETC kicked in. I am presuming the ETC and ESC are working with the same data. It is measuring the difference in wheel speeds and it must take into account that someone may be turning sharply so it simply can't engage on every tight turn. So really, the ESC is only there in a situation one should avoid in the first place. Relying on ESC is like relying on airbags or seatbelts -- if you need them you got yourself into a situation you shouldn't have.
Jasmine is offline  
post #60 of 106 Old 09-01-2018, 02:10 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 664
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasmine
The safety concerns don't bother me. As I said above, I drove for 25+ years without ESC and never needed it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Jacobs
It does not bother me to turn off the nanny ware in these things either!
Come on guys, you can't possibly be so naive and have such blatant disregard for safety? Let me put it in Chris' favorite style:
FACT: Older vehicles with less or less-advanced safety technology are easily proven to be less safe than modern vehicles such as the Compass via crash tests and statistics.
FACT: Just because you were lucky enough to not die or get injured in an older vehicle is anecdotal / not evidence / does not support the concept you are suggesting that your older vehicle is "as safe" to drive today as the Compass.
FACT: The modern computer controlled safety systems in the Compass can react so much faster than your organic human mind its not even funny, AND the system in the Compass has access to countermeasure options you do not, such as the option to brake one individual wheel for yaw correction.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasmine
Relying on ESC is like relying on airbags or seatbelts -- if you need them you got yourself into a situation you shouldn't have.
Utter nonsense! You cannot control or predict a deer bursting out onto the road in front of you, there is no element of preemptive control in many bad situations that happen on the roads every day. Say the deer jumps out, you instinctively swerve to avoid it but subsequently loose control of the vehicle's trajectory because you turned ESC off at the start of your drive, and you end up smashing into oncoming traffic and killing one or more occupants of the other vehicle because, sadly for them, they were driving an older car with less air bags and no crumple-zone engineering so despite doing nothing wrong they suffer the worst of the consequences of your extremely poor and selfish choices!

I am personally extremely impressed by the ESC in the Compass, on icy roads or in hydroplaning situations it has done very well for me. There is no reason to give up an ounce of that protective measure on the whim that MAYBE some kind of wear can be avoided in some part of the drivetrain with ESC off. It is both irresponsible and illogical. I have a live-and-let-die attitude 99% of the time but my loved ones and myself don't have any choice about sharing the highways with other people such as yourselves, we have to go to work and grocery stores and all that good stuff so if you could pretty please not endanger us all over your mis-guided no-concrete-evidence unsupported-theory of driveline wear, that would be swell.
arudlang is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Compass Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome