Build Quality - Jeep Compass Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-05-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Build Quality

Hi, I'm new to this forum, but am NOT new to Jeep. We've had 5 so far, starting with a new 1999 Cherokee Sport 2 door. Our last one was a 2011 Patriot with the Freedom Drive II off road package.
I've been looking at the new Compass, and love the size and features. We found a lease deal on leftover 2019 Latitudes for $239/month.

I drove 3 identically optioned 2019 Compass Latitude 4x4's yesterday. All 3 were amazingly different:
-One rode worse than the other two. It just handled the bumps better. They all started with 31 PSI in every tire, identical Firestones. I drove them all down the same streets within minutes of each other. They all had out-of-round tires from sitting too long, which eventually went away.
-The stereo sounded worse in one than the other two, even though the stereos were all identical, set identically (Bass, treble & mid-range at zero, speakers perfectly centered). I set that on every test drive.
-One had an engine knock, after it was fully warmed up.
-The heated seats didn't heat well on two, but worked fine on one. I know how they're supposed to work, as our Patriot had them.
-The power lumbar in one driver's seat didn't deflate well.
-The battery never charged fully in one, even after it ran for 30 minutes. It wasn't dead when we started.
-One had an abrupt lurch when you tried to accelerate too fast from a red light. The auto-stop definitely had issues.

Unfortunately the one that I liked the best, had the engine knock. It's been a long time since I drove a brand new car that knocked.
I drove 6 new Subaru Foresters in June. They were all identical.

What's up with the build quality on the new Compass?

Last edited by cbasta; 10-05-2019 at 12:14 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-05-2019, 03:02 PM
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Very interesting. I had a 2018 Compass that got wrecked and I replaced it with a 2019. These weren't identical, but the 2018 had two issues my 2019 does not have: the 2018 had the grumbling noise between 25-40, and the 2018 drank a lot of oil -- not gas, oil. I was getting <1000qt at the start, but it improved to +/-3000 to the quart after about 30,000 miles.

As I said, the 2019 doesn't have either of these issues.
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-06-2019, 11:50 AM
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That's the beauty of a lease. You don't need to worry about the long term reliability.

Things I would compare are the mileage and build date. Some of it could be due to the car just sitting on the lot a while.

Battery charging - probably takes longer to charge due to the auto start stop.

Engine knocking - do you have low octane fuel in your area? Seems very odd. The engine should take regular just fine.

The seat warmers. You are shopping in October and could be the first time those seat warmers are tested. Maybe a second or third time through it works better.

That said I have no issues with my 2018's build quality so far. No seat warmers or auto start stop in mine. Never heard engine knocking. Speakers are fine and rides well.
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-07-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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All 3 Jeeps were built at about the same time. There is no low octane fuel in our area. The auto start/stop doesn't function until the battery is fully charged. This battery never charged fully. The salesman stated that he's had batteries go bad in his new cars.

-Now that I think about it, we had a 1-month old Mopar battery go bad in our Patriot 3 years ago.

Last edited by cbasta; 10-07-2019 at 12:36 PM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-10-2019, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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I received a private message from someone but the system will not allow me to reply via PM. This is that reply:

I know the feeling. Thanks to our Chrysler Service Contract, Chrysler spent about $12k to fix our 2011 Patriot, in the past 18 months. We eventually gave up on it, as the contract was due to expire. We got a Subaru Forester, but still miss the Jeeps (we had 5 in the past 20 years). That, and the fact that we need another vehicle, are why I started looking again.

I think the Compass build quality issues are primarily due to the fact that it's designed after the Fiat 500, and assembled in Toluca, Mexico. A Jeep dealer showed me a new Cherokee today, which is more comfortable, but I still like the Compass's small size and features for such a small vehicle.

Last edited by cbasta; 10-10-2019 at 12:36 PM.
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-11-2019, 03:59 PM
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The car are extremely cheap.
Although not super expensive either.
Have read allot of issues, no surprise since the previous generation did as well.
Its a neat little car but even myself as a buyer didn't go into this thinking of reliability or build quality otherwise would have bought something else for sure. I wanted to try my first jeep and more importantly wanted a manual SUV which is almost impossible to find and wanted a really cheap car so got this 19 compass sport manual 4x4.
Its MEH to say the least but gets me from a to b and gives me my manual driving fix.
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-12-2019, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaEastKTM View Post
The car are extremely cheap.
Although not super expensive either.
Have read allot of issues, no surprise since the previous generation did as well.
Its a neat little car but even myself as a buyer didn't go into this thinking of reliability or build quality otherwise would have bought something else for sure. I wanted to try my first jeep and more importantly wanted a manual SUV which is almost impossible to find and wanted a really cheap car so got this 19 compass sport manual 4x4.
Its MEH to say the least but gets me from a to b and gives me my manual driving fix.
Like you, I bought the Compass because it was one of very few SUV's with the manual option. I have driven manuals all my life and did not want to give it up. SO far with about 4,300 miles on it I have not had any issues with it and it doesn't seem to be eating oil like others have reported so maybe I lucked out with getting a good one. Biggest gripe I have is the lack of spare parts. I ordered a spare tire kit months ago and still do not have it. I wanted the tow package with it, and again, not in stock, no ETA. I ended up having one installed by Uhaul. It sits under the bumper but that is ok. I only need it for light towing. I have another vehicle for my main towing (Chevy Tahoe) I did purchase the extended warranty so it should carry me for a few extra years in case it develops problems.

Mike
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-18-2019, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeexplorer View Post
Like you, I bought the Compass because it was one of very few SUV's with the manual option. I have driven manuals all my life and did not want to give it up. SO far with about 4,300 miles on it I have not had any issues with it and it doesn't seem to be eating oil like others have reported so maybe I lucked out with getting a good one. Biggest gripe I have is the lack of spare parts. I ordered a spare tire kit months ago and still do not have it. I wanted the tow package with it, and again, not in stock, no ETA. I ended up having one installed by Uhaul. It sits under the bumper but that is ok. I only need it for light towing. I have another vehicle for my main towing (Chevy Tahoe) I did purchase the extended warranty so it should carry me for a few extra years in case it develops problems.

Mike
So far my oil consumption been okay also but just switched to synthetic and I'm afraid now
Will keep an eye on it.
I got the factory tow package but took them almost 6 months to get the parts and $1700 to install which was very expensive.
But to not risk any warranty implications had them do it with oem hitch and harness.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-18-2019, 05:22 PM
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The battery vendors are the problem. Their quality is not consistent.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-23-2019, 11:51 AM
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Just did a factory tow package as well and have them replacing some interior trim that had broken clips from them riping it apart and not putting it back together well. Interior trim was free. full tow package with labor and parts 850. You are getting raked over the coals my friend.

"Wannabe Blacked Out - Oscar" - 2017 Jeep Compass 2nd gen body "Latitude 4x4"
"The Black Castle - Cassie" - 2014 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4 (Wife's Castle) Slight mods with lighting and head and tail lights
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-23-2019, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaEastKTM
just switched to synthetic and I'm afraid now
Should not be running anything other than full-synthetic in these new engines, all the time. There isn't really such a thing (commercially) as 0W-20 conventional anyways, so you must have been running a blend at minimum, and there is no reason to run a blended oil in anything nice/new that you care about. If its a junkmobile beater with 200k miles that needs oil topped off continuously then whatever blend is on sale is fine for summer, even in a beater like that I'd run full-syn in the winter assuming I actually want it to start in the cold.

I'm pretty hard on the go-pedal in all my cars but I'm not a monster, pretty much everything gets full-syn around here, right down to the lawn mower.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-25-2019, 03:16 PM
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Should not be running anything other than full-synthetic in these new engines, all the time. There isn't really such a thing (commercially) as 0W-20 conventional anyways, so you must have been running a blend at minimum, and there is no reason to run a blended oil in anything nice/new that you care about. If its a junkmobile beater with 200k miles that needs oil topped off continuously then whatever blend is on sale is fine for summer, even in a beater like that I'd run full-syn in the winter assuming I actually want it to start in the cold.

I'm pretty hard on the go-pedal in all my cars but I'm not a monster, pretty much everything gets full-syn around here, right down to the lawn mower.
From new for break in will come with mineral or some specific "break-in" oil.
First oil change which I've just done at 8000km switch to synthetic as per service requirement.
All good just hope I don't start burning oil now that on the fully synthetic diet which could be (not sure) thinner then what came from factory for break-in (they might not be using the thin stuff for break in I'm not sure).
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-25-2019, 06:49 PM
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I think you have some misconceptions in your head about oil, but I'm hesitant to dig into it because these conversations always spiral downwards the same way.

I'm guilty of using terminology like "thinner" or "thicker" when referring to viscosity because other normal people understand the idea I'm trying to convey better, but technically speaking there is no such things as "thick" or "thin" oils in any given weight. The viscosity is the viscosity, period (*for a given temperature). 10W-30 synthetic is not "thinner" than 10W-30 conventional. These are just misnomers we say to one another to try to simplify the explanation of a more complicated idea.

The superstitions about synthetic oil are perpetuated by simple misunderstandings and incorrect correlations people made years and years ago after changing oil type and discovering a slow seepage or leak, but we're talking about much older cars here with much less precise tolerances on average where these misunderstandings came from. It's apples and oranges when people try to apply these old fables to modern engines.

"Switching to synthetic oil" (which in your case is not actually a switch at all because thats what was already in there from the factory) does not cause leaks or bring on oil burning. Thats just an old urban myth.

There is no mineral oil or special break-in oil in these cheap mass produced FCA engines.

There is lots of good resources to learn all about engine oil on the internet if a person has time to kill but the gist of it is very, very simple. All a normal person needs to remember is:
- You should always use full-synthetic oil in anything modern and nice that you care about.
- You should always use the viscosity of oil specified by the manufacturer in the owner's manual.
- You should never put extra friction modifiers or magic potions in with your oil.
- Change your oil and filter on a reasonable schedule that is within the car manufacturer and oil producer's guidelines.


Thats truly all there is to it. But I might add:
- There is no engine oil leak or oil burning problem that can be legitimately "cured" by changing oil viscosity or by adding any magic potions. That is simply not a valid solution, even if it temporarily appears to have the desired effect. Anybody who claims to have cured an engine oil leak by switching to a higher viscosity oil is lying to you and to themselves, they just don't realize it. I'm not saying a minor oil leak might not appear to stop or slow down after changing oil, that can happen, but its not because of "thicker" oil.

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post #14 of 16 Old 10-28-2019, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
I think you have some misconceptions in your head about oil, but I'm hesitant to dig into it because these conversations always spiral downwards the same way.

I'm guilty of using terminology like "thinner" or "thicker" when referring to viscosity because other normal people understand the idea I'm trying to convey better, but technically speaking there is no such things as "thick" or "thin" oils in any given weight. The viscosity is the viscosity, period (*for a given temperature). 10W-30 synthetic is not "thinner" than 10W-30 conventional. These are just misnomers we say to one another to try to simplify the explanation of a more complicated idea.

The superstitions about synthetic oil are perpetuated by simple misunderstandings and incorrect correlations people made years and years ago after changing oil type and discovering a slow seepage or leak, but we're talking about much older cars here with much less precise tolerances on average where these misunderstandings came from. It's apples and oranges when people try to apply these old fables to modern engines.

"Switching to synthetic oil" (which in your case is not actually a switch at all because thats what was already in there from the factory) does not cause leaks or bring on oil burning. Thats just an old urban myth.

There is no mineral oil or special break-in oil in these cheap mass produced FCA engines.

There is lots of good resources to learn all about engine oil on the internet if a person has time to kill but the gist of it is very, very simple. All a normal person needs to remember is:
- You should always use full-synthetic oil in anything modern and nice that you care about.
- You should always use the viscosity of oil specified by the manufacturer in the owner's manual.
- You should never put extra friction modifiers or magic potions in with your oil.
- Change your oil and filter on a reasonable schedule that is within the car manufacturer and oil producer's guidelines.


Thats truly all there is to it. But I might add:
- There is no engine oil leak or oil burning problem that can be legitimately "cured" by changing oil viscosity or by adding any magic potions. That is simply not a valid solution, even if it temporarily appears to have the desired effect. Anybody who claims to have cured an engine oil leak by switching to a higher viscosity oil is lying to you and to themselves, they just don't realize it. I'm not saying a minor oil leak might not appear to stop or slow down after changing oil, that can happen, but its not because of "thicker" oil.

I think you're into an oil discussion but thats not what I posted but you sure had allot of time to post all of that interwebs info
I'm not new to any of this.

So I'll recap on what I meant in my post.
Car comes with whichever oil they use for break in, likely mineral or break-in oil. Now i switched to synthetic which will be different from break-in oil and is what factory recommends and was done by dealer. Everything by the book thus far here. My point was about the fact that now my worries (which I'm already worried about) on the oil consumption issue just got increased since different oil then what I had for the first 8000km which so far had no noticeable consumption. Point being hoping it doesnt change but now that its a different oil will more closely monitor.

But great info you posted for those that want to better understand oils.
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-28-2019, 04:46 PM
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I'm still pretty sure the factory fill is plain full synthetic oil, there is no special "break-in" oil in really anybody's mass-produced engines anymore. Honda is the only one I've known to do a "break-in" oil on mass produced consumer commuter machines and I'm not even sure they still do that today, other than that "break-in" oils are something you only find in a handful of really expensive specialty or race cars or high performance bikes.

Even if there was special break-in oil most people with issues have reported the exact opposite problem here, their initial factory fill seems to all but fall out of the motor in the first thousand or so miles but somehow oil consumption gets better for some with more mileage and time and new oil put in.

Again, there is no "thick" or "thin" 0W-20 but we don't actually know for sure what they put in them from the factory, if it really IS 0W-20... If you wanted to make a theory that perhaps the factory fill is something goofy that perhaps is not multi-grade and has less overall viscosity than the oils we buy at the store or get from our dealerships... I'd say at least we have some evidence of that here on the forum from various user reports. Many people are noting oil consumption issues tapering off after getting a few thousands miles in but we've never really considered that perhaps its not so much putting miles on the motor that helps, but perhaps simply getting the unknown factory fill out and normal oil in is what puts an end to the rapid consumption of the initial oil people roll out of the dealership with.

I'm not sure I'd put much stock into that theory, but I'd sooner believe that then your opposite concern that getting the factory fill out is going to bring on any kind of leaking or consumption problems for your motor.
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post #16 of 16 Old 10-28-2019, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arudlang View Post
I'm still pretty sure the factory fill is plain full synthetic oil, there is no special "break-in" oil in really anybody's mass-produced engines anymore. Honda is the only one I've known to do a "break-in" oil on mass produced consumer commuter machines and I'm not even sure they still do that today, other than that "break-in" oils are something you only find in a handful of really expensive specialty or race cars or high performance bikes.

Even if there was special break-in oil most people with issues have reported the exact opposite problem here, their initial factory fill seems to all but fall out of the motor in the first thousand or so miles but somehow oil consumption gets better for some with more mileage and time and new oil put in.

Again, there is no "thick" or "thin" 0W-20 but we don't actually know for sure what they put in them from the factory, if it really IS 0W-20... If you wanted to make a theory that perhaps the factory fill is something goofy that perhaps is not multi-grade and has less overall viscosity than the oils we buy at the store or get from our dealerships... I'd say at least we have some evidence of that here on the forum from various user reports. Many people are noting oil consumption issues tapering off after getting a few thousands miles in but we've never really considered that perhaps its not so much putting miles on the motor that helps, but perhaps simply getting the unknown factory fill out and normal oil in is what puts an end to the rapid consumption of the initial oil people roll out of the dealership with.

I'm not sure I'd put much stock into that theory, but I'd sooner believe that then your opposite concern that getting the factory fill out is going to bring on any kind of leaking or consumption problems for your motor.
Even if they use a break-in oil, it wont be in the engine when you buy the car. The initial break-in is done at the factory where they run the engine for an hour or so (this is common for every manufacturer) at different settings/rpms. I am not even sure if they fill the engine with oil or just connect the engine to a close loop system through the oil filter "socket" and that cycle oil to the engine. This initial break in is the reason why new engines dont need an extensive break in period that older engines required.

I also changed my oil after 500 miles and I dont get any oil consumption. But I think the key is to never run the engine low on oil. If you run it with low oil, it will turn into a permanent problem because the engine simply doesn't have any tolerance for additional wear. All those horror stories of people getting extremely high amounts of oil consumption have one thing in common; getting low oil pressure warning. We all know what needs to happen to get low oil pressure warning. You basically need to run the engine almost dry, after that the engine will be ruined and will burn oil regardless of what you do.
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Last edited by Tripod; 10-28-2019 at 08:24 PM.
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