Has anyone out there replaced their fuel pump? I have been reading up and watching youtube videos on how to replace the fuel pump. Apparently some jeeps and dodge calibers are having problems with fuel pumps. Some even reported burnt out connectors at the fuel pump. This type of problem probably happens to other vehicle makes too. Some use similar type connectors.
Anyway my '07 Jeep Compass has already reached a little over 230,000 miles and I was wondering when the pump will go out. My old '87 BMW 325's pump went out at 144,000 miles.
I have been noticing a small loss of power and I found myself stepping on the gas a little more than I used to when I merge onto the freeway or climbing uphill. Also when driving long distances I noticed that once in a while the idle would suddenly drop just for an instant then go to normal again. I was wondering what would cause that. I thought maybe the pump is starting to go. Now instead of waiting for the pump to fail completely because a failed pump can be highly dangerous I decided to replace it so I ordered one online. It cost me around $146 with shipping and tax.
But before I replaced the part I studied up on it. I only used four tools. One is a T55 torx driver for removing the rear seat fasteners. One small flat head screwdriver (for removing the plastic access hole cover on the panel under the seat), one old screw driver that I ground a small concave shape on the end (prevents blade from jumping out of the lock ring slot) and one rubber mallet. Other people used a regular hammer but I thought the rubber mallet will make less noise (did not want to disturb the neighbors)
Here are the steps I took:
1. Remove rear seat and plastic access cover from panel.
2. Inspect pump top and lock ring. Cleaned as necessary. I used simple green
and some rags to remove the dirt.
3. I removed the fuel pressure by disconnecting the terminal connector and starting the engine. The engine ran until there is no more pressure in the fuel injector rail. When the engine won't run anymore I removed the negative cable from the battery. I removed the gas cap and put it back in loosely.
4. I used the old screwdriver with the concave end placed in the lock ring slots and applied force to turn the ring counterclockwise with the use of the rubber mallet.
5. After I removed the ring the pump is almost ready to be lifted out. I disconnected the fuel line. WARNING: There is still fuel pressure in the line and gas will spray so I used some rags and a to try to catch the fuel. After catching the fuel I made sure that I took the rags out and away from the car as gas fumes can be overwhelming and nauseating.
6. The new pump came with a new gasket and I removed the old one and put the new one in.
7. The float needs to be attached to the new pump so I did that then I installed the pump into the tank. I put the lock ring on and reconnected the terminal and fuel line. The fuel line uses no clamps with screws but uses a special clip. Be sure not to lose that. I don't know if you can purchase one by itself without buying the entire fuel line so don't lose that.
8. I reconnected the battery cable. The car is now ready to start. But before starting the car I let the new pump "soak in" gasoline. Cycled the key on for a few seconds then off again to make sure fuel is going inside the pump. You can hear the pump run when the key is turned on.
Finally I tightened the gas cap and started the engine.
I checked for leaks or fumes and when everything was OK I re-installed the cover and the seat.
The test dive confirmed my suspicion the old pump was on its last legs. The car is now more pleasurable to drive. It gets up and goes fast just like it felt when new. Another important thing is that I don't have to worry about the pump going bad on me while driving.
I failed to mention static discharge prevention but I did wet the floor and had the garden hose spraying a small amount of water under the car.