Originally Posted by Jasmine
Service bulletin TSB 08-095-18 from FCA has a software update your dealer can do.
This update greatly reduced the humming noise for me, although I never really believed the humming noise was indicative of any issues and the sound is still there just at different speeds as Jasmine said. The update will make most people happy but when you still hear it now and then just remember its one of the most advanced all-wheel drive systems around just doing its good work for you, trying to give you AWD performance with 2WD economy.
Originally Posted by Jasmine
You can also make the noise go away by using autostick or by turning ESC off. I was chastised by some on the site for turning off ESC because it is a safety device; still others said ESC is always there regardless of the switch position.
ESC has three states. When you start the car, it is completely on
. If you press the button momentarily, it is partially off
. If you hold the button at a STOP for about 10 seconds it will go almost completely off
, but, slips back into partially off
mode if you go above a certain speed. This is all described in the user manual.
I am adamantly against making a habit of doing normal daily driving with ESC even partially off. I think it is foolish to think that is some kind of solution for a "noise" that has never been proven to be indicative of any kind of issue whatsoever, while putting lives at risk by operating the vehicle with its safety measures reduced. They will know, if you are involved in a major crash, what the state of ESC was at the time of collision thanks to data recording built into the ECU. The legal liability alone there should be enough to dissuade anyone from such activity, but there are always people that insist and thats why you can't even completely turn off ESC anymore. (Full disclosure, I was once one of those people doing most daily driving with ESC disabled in one of my previous vehicles, but everyone is young and dumb once...)
Originally Posted by Jasmine
The new Kittenfish engine, I mean Tigershark engine...
Originally Posted by Jasmine
...tends to use a lot of oil
This is not really...quite...fair to say... arrrg here we go.......
Yes, its true the engine is designed to "use" a tiny bit of oil as a sacrifice to the friction gods in the quest to attain better fuel economy and more power out of a smaller engine. This has been going on for a long time, across many different engine manufactures. It is not new and not unique to Jeep/FCA. The science behind it is sound and we reap the benefits. This engine produces nearly the same horsepower as engines with nearly two liters of additional displacement did in the early 2000's, and gets significantly better fuel economy. The MPG figures Jasmine is reporting are leaps and bounds better than the MPG of somewhat comparable small SUV's of the late 90's. These are the first SUVs I am aware of that play with the 30 MPG mark and yet retain significant towing and payload capacities. I had a late 90's era S10 Blazer for 10 years, it had similar horsepower and towing, a little more cargo room, but yielded 16-18 MPG most of the time, 22 on its best day, even with a fresh rebuilt engine. Jasmine, you are saving buckets of fuel that more than pay for any oil consumption your engine may be doing as long as its working within spec.
There lies the rub. The grain of truth to the oil consumption scare is that FCA seems to be having a bit of trouble cranking out these mass-produced engines and keeping tolerances in check. The spec for the tightness of the piston rings is
dialed back to reduce friction, but all it takes from there while trying to build thousands of engines as quickly as possible is the occasional batch of rings or cylinder bores (we don't really know which, could be both) to be off enough to make these parts looser yet in their interaction with each other... and you start getting handfuls of really angry new car owners who's engines are burning up a LOT of oil..
We are only talking about handfuls here. If your engine's tolerances are within spec, and if your piston rings all seat properly within the first few hundred or couple thousand miles, you can hardly tell the oil level has crept down the hash marks of the dipstick by the time the next oil change rolls around. 1/4 to 1/2 a quart is probably the intended amount to be allowed to slip past the rings and get burnt up over the course of one oil service interval. Due to variances in build tolerance, some could be a bit more, this is why our oil pans have extra capacity built into them. 5.5 quarts is a ton
of oil for a little four banger, but some of it is basically extra to help ensure there is always plenty of oil available, even when the engine is old and wore or breaking in or, unluckily, assembled out of spec.
Mine seems to use about the amount of oil it is intended to now that I am approaching the 20,000 mile mark. It used up probably over one quart before the first oil change, maybe 3/4 of a quart the second, and has settled off since then at maybe 1/2 a quart between intervals. I'm not keeping that close of track anymore. At this point my engine seems to have great compression (and good power), and gets me fantastic fuel economy, all as intended. I've been able to tow 3500 pounds across a 1200 mile road trip that included portions in the mountains of West Virginia, and I've been able to hold 38 miles per gallon for 150 miles driving solo unloaded on a rural 55 MPH road. Anyone who doesn't think that is impressive dynamic range for this little powerplant should take a closer look at what your options were just a couple short decades ago. This is the "have my cake and eat it too" vehicle that I always wished my gas-thirsty S10 Blazer could have been back in the day.
Jasmine I hope you don't feel that I am ragging on you, we agree on some things and disagree on others and that's just fine. I know there are an uncomfortable number of owners who are very vocal on the internet about issues with oil consumption but its a handful of unlucky voices crying over the silence of hundreds of thousands of 2.4-powered FCA vehicles that work as intended day in and day out. FCA is admittedly not very good about supporting those who win the reverse-lottery on these engines. That's why anytime someone asks I keep telling them "you gotta lease it, and make sure its a 'good one', before you buy it out completely." The combined electrical gremlins that have come from the hasty copy-and-paste of code from other FCA vehicles dumped into this thing, combined with the chance of getting an engine thats a tad (or a lot) oil thirsty means you just can't know for sure until you've had the chance to assess it over the course of 10-20 thousand miles. The old S10 Blazer I had was the same way, the first year of a major redesign with a lot of things that got cleaned up in the years that followed but the particular Blazer I had was one of the "good ones" and it served me well.
I can't guarantee this is good advice, but based on my experience I feel like the fact that I am towing about 15% of the time helped my piston rings to seat as best they could early in the life of this motor. I won't get into the details here because folks are probably sick of me going on and on anyways, and I've said this all before, but you can google around the topic of break-in procedures and advice for new and rebuilt engines and although its mainly in the context of racing there is some universal understanding that putting an engine under a moderate load early in its life can help the piston rings to seat and create the best seal they can. Failure of piston ring seating means an engine that burns a lot of oil all its life. When the cylinder walls are new there is a finite amount of time for the rings to dig in and make their home, if it doesn't happen and the piston walls glaze without the rings settling in there is nothing you can do shy of taking it all apart and honing the walls to try to roughen them up again.
The book says don't tow until at least 600 miles are on it. I had a 2000 pound boat hitched to mine at about 620 miles and towed it carefully to nearby lakes and it seems to have worked out for me, but it could be totally unrelated too, remember this is anecdotal. A trailer is not necessarily required to create the moderate loads that certain engine builders recommend for engine break-in.
The last bit of my two-cents would be to not put anything cooky into your oil, ever, and don't play games with the viscosity pretending you know more about oil and this engine's lubrication needs than the dozens of engineers who designed and refined this motor. The 2nd gen Compass is "New" in the sense that it is a "New Combination" of all of FCA's same parts they have had on hand for years. This 2.4L motor they have had for a long, long time and although they keep tweaking it like with the Multiaire II intake system the core of it is pretty much unchanged, and they know what oil is best for it. Putting "thicker" oil into it is NOT a solution if you happen to have one of the unlucky oil burners. Goofy things like Slick50 and other friction modifiers do NOT belong in a new engine. If you want your piston rings to fail to seat putting a few ounces of friction modifier in would do it almost for sure, and there are a lot of people out there who think they are doing their car some big favor or setting it up to last for a million miles by sneaking some funny stuff in right away when its brand new. Some have had some seeming success playing that game but a lot of others have not.
Ok I've more than typed enough for everyone to be good and sick of my know-it-all platitudes, I'm off to throw my two cents around on another forum for a bit. Good luck with your new Compass!