New Wheel bearing leads to ABS, ESP/BAS, 4wd! light to come on - Jeep Compass Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-27-2009, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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New Wheel bearing leads to ABS, ESP/BAS, 4wd! light to come on

I just installed a wheel OEM bearing on the front passenger side of my 07 jeep compass(53,000). After I got everything back together and took it for a test drive, the ABS, ESP/BAS, traction control and 4wd! lights all came on. I called the dealership and they said that it was most likely caused by the sensor but that I should get it scanned first. The cheapest I can get that done is around $60 and the sensor cost around $30. I was wondering if anyone had ran into this problem yet and how they went about fixing. Or if anyone knows anything I should try to fix this. I would appreciate any info on this problem.

-Bill
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-27-2009, 02:24 AM
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Got an Autozone close by? They will scan for free. However they will NOT reset the lights.


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post #3 of 11 Old 08-27-2009, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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I have already been to one. They said that there scanners wont work on ABS codes and sure enough they didnt. Im not sure if this is just in my area or not.

I ran into a website last night that details on how to test an ABS sensor with a mulltiMeter. I am going to try that and see if I can get any results.

-Bill

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post #4 of 11 Old 08-29-2009, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I have some codes, Im assuming it points to the sensor but would like to get some opinions....

C1015 Jeep Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit

C101A Jeep Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Low
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-29-2009, 04:41 AM
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WSS SPEED INPUTS

Most wheel speed sensors (except for the latest generation of “active” WSS sensors) won’t generate a readable signal until a vehicle is traveling 3 to 5 mph or faster. You can spin each wheel by hand to see if the WSS is generating a signal, but that won’t tell you if the signal is accurate or how one WSS compares to another. So to check the WSS inputs, the vehicle needs to be driven in a straight line at 12 to 25 mph while you or a helper watches the wheel speed sensor PIDs on the scan tool.

If all of the wheel speed sensors are generating a speed signal, and they all agree, the fault is not a bad WSS, but something else (possibly an intermittent wiring fault in one of the WSS circuits). Since most WSS problems are due to broken wires or loose or corroded wiring connectors, visually inspect the wires and use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to check the wiring while wiggling the wires back and forth. If the circuit suddenly goes open or shows a jump in resistance, you’ve found the fault.

If one of the WSS PIDs reads zero mph and the other three are reading vehicle speed, the fault is a bad sensor or a fault in the sensor wiring circuit (keep reading for information on how to check the sensor itself).

If all four WSS are indicating a speed reading, but one is reading a couple of mph faster than the others, stop the vehicle and check the tire size on the wheel that is reading faster than the others. Chances are somebody mounted a tire that has a smaller diameter than the others. If the front WSS sensors are both showing a different speed than the rear WSS sensors, this too may be the result of someone having replaced the OEM tires with ones that are a different size front and rear.

Changing tire sizes will change the WSS inputs, which may upset the operation of the ABS, traction control or stability control systems. On some vehicles, the control module can be re-flashed to accommodate a change in tire size. But on most vehicles this is not possible. So the vehicle owner has to stick with the same OEM tire and wheel size. If they want to replace their OEM wheels and tires with aftermarket wheels and tires, they can go with plus wheel sizing and lower profile tires to keep the overall tire diameter the same as before.

If you find a single WSS that is reading slower than the others, the cause may be one of two things: an over sized tire on that wheel or the sensor is not generating a pulse for every notch in the tone ring causing a lower than normal speed output. Things to check for here (besides the tire size) would be rusty, corroded or damaged teeth on the tone ring, or an excessive air gap between the tip of the sensor and the ring.

WSS CHECKS
Whether you have a scan tool or not, there are a number of checks that can be made to verify the operation of a wheel speed sensor.

The wheel speed sensors on most vehicles are magnetic and generate an alternating current (AC) signal that increases in frequency and amplitude with wheel speed. These are sometimes called “variable reluctance” (VR) or “passive” WSS sensors because they generate their own voltage signal when the vehicle is in motion. They have two wires: signal and ground.

Inside a passive WSS sensor is a permanent magnet core surrounded by copper wire windings. When the teeth on the tone ring rotate past the sensor tip, it changes the magnetic field and induces a current in the sensor windings. The result is a classic sine wave current pattern that changes with wheel speed.

The strength of the signal can be affected by resistance inside the sensor, resistance in the external wiring and connectors, metallic debris from worn brake rotors, drums or semi-metallic brake linings sticking to the end of the sensor, and the air gap between the sensor and tone ring (which is mounted on the axle, CV joint, brake rotor, brake drum or inside the hub).

A narrow air gap is usually necessary to induce a strong signal in the sensor’s magnetic windings. Air gaps typically range from .016 in. to as much as .050 in. (0.40 to 1.3 mm) depending on the application. As a rule, there should be no more than .006 inches of runout in the tone ring because too much runout may cause an erratic signal. A cracked tone ring can also cause an erratic signal.

With magnetic WSS sensors, you can check the integrity of the sensor by connecting an ohmmeter across its terminals. The resistance specs will vary depending on the application, but most sensors should read 450 to 2200 ohms (always look up the exact specifications because they can vary a great deal from one vehicle application to another). If a sensor reads open, shorted or is out of specifications, it can’t generate an accurate signal and must be replaced.

You can also test the sensor’s output by spinning the tire by hand at a rate of about one revolution per second. With a voltmeter attached to the sensor’s terminals, a good WSS sensor should generate about 50 to 700 millivolts AC.
If a sensor’s output is low, and the sensor is removable, pull it out and clean the tip. Also, check the air gap when the sensor is installed (refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications and adjustment procedure).

If you have a digital storage oscilloscope, you can connect the leads to the WSS sensor terminals and observe the waveform on the scope. A scope will show the voltage and frequency of the signal, as well as any missing or distorted humps in the sine wave pattern. If one or more humps in the wave pattern are significantly shorter than the others, it indicates one or more damaged teeth on the sensor tone ring.
The amplitude of the signal is affected by the air gap between each tooth and the sensor, so if a tooth is chipped it won’t generate as strong a pulse as the other teeth. The fix would be to replace the damaged tone ring (or the hub if the sensor and tone ring are integral parts of the hub assembly).

Something else to watch out for is mismatched parts. To produce an accurate signal, the sensor’s tone ring must have the correct number of teeth for the application. Make sure the tone ring on a replacement rotor, drum, axle shaft or outboard CV joint is the same as the original if any of these parts have been recently replaced, or need to be replaced.


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Last edited by CompassLimited; 08-29-2009 at 04:44 AM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-31-2009, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Can someone tell me where the tone ring is at on the compass? is it in the wheel bearing itself?
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-01-2009, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Fix Found:

To all who might attempt to do a wheel bearing install themselfs, make sure you tell who ever is pressing the bearing to have the rubber side of the bearing towards the sensor(magnetic side). If you dont it will throw a whole bunch of lights on the dash.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-02-2009, 02:57 AM
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This is good information, thanks to all for posting. It may get tricky keeping these things maintained into the future. It's not like these are 1957 Chevrolet BelAir sedans(easy). A shop repair manual for the Compass would be good though.


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post #9 of 11 Old 05-21-2014, 11:16 PM
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Did you ever get you Jeep fixed? I am having the same issue. Everything worked perfectly on my jeep until I installed an aftermarket tymco front drivers side wheel bearing. I'd love to hear the fix. Oh and we did have it in backwards at first, magnet is on the proper side now and my lights all came on again!

Last edited by jiggyjeeper; 05-21-2014 at 11:18 PM. Reason: added more helpful info
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-26-2014, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiggyjeeper View Post
Did you ever get you Jeep fixed? I am having the same issue. Everything worked perfectly on my jeep until I installed an aftermarket tymco front drivers side wheel bearing. I'd love to hear the fix. Oh and we did have it in backwards at first, magnet is on the proper side now and my lights all came on again!
You should read threads first and/or search.

You might find your answer

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post #11 of 11 Old 06-10-2014, 11:15 PM
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i need help please

I'm sorry for posting this here but im new and don't know how to post or ask a question on here I have a 2007 compass that I literally have owned about 20 hrs. now so im freaking out the following lights are showing abs/esp./bas/4wd!/and traction control it just had new brakes put on the back the left rear abs sensor is the problem I think the dealership where I got it took it off and cleaned it and it worked for awhile then the lights came back on I ordered a new sensor and im putting it on tomorrow but my question is the 4wd! light came on and was flashing then the traction control light came on and was flashing like it does wen u spin but I wasn't spinning anyway then all of a sudden while I was driving it acted like it was stuck in gear and wouldn't shift up all I could do was like 15 mph and it was at about 3000 rpms I pulled over and cut it off the book said that light meant 4wd overload or something I cant remember but when I started it back after about 10 mins the lights where still on but it drove fine and shifted fine now can anyone tell me if that not shifting problem was caused by the abs sensor being messed up or is that something else the previous owner wont let me ask them any questions about it im 19 and bought this car for my fiancé we spent every dime we had to get it and I traded my car in so im stuck now and don't know what to do im changing the sensor tomorrow and hopefully it fixes but id like to no if it will fix my not shifting problem. thank you very much for reading this and for your replies that I hope I get.
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