Front Lower Control Arms replacement - Jeep Compass Forum
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post #1 of 88 Old 05-31-2010, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Front Lower Control Arms replacement

Does anyone here have experience in replacing? From the looks of it, it looks like 3 bolts for the assembly itself and also looks like I would have a need to press anything out. I have probably had the issue with bad joints for 35-40k miles because I have been chewing up tires since then.

Thanks for the help folks.
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post #2 of 88 Old 05-31-2010, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Should read, I wouldn't have a need to press anything out.
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post #3 of 88 Old 06-07-2010, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
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WOW, no replies. Well, I bought 2 lower control arms from ebay for 240 total. Maybe I will report back or maybe I will let this forum die a sloooowwwww death.
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post #4 of 88 Old 06-07-2010, 05:51 PM
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I'll take a stab at a reply. If you know about suspension then you know that there are 2 bolts at the back end of the control arm and a ball joint at the other end. Depending on the model of compass you have you may have to pull the spindle to remove the arm. You will definitely need a spring compressor to control the front spring. You will probably need a pickle fork to remove the ball joint, if it falls out replace the ball joint as it's worn out. Replacement will be the same as removal. Don't forget to torque the castle nuts to the required torque.

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post #5 of 88 Old 06-18-2010, 12:09 AM
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I have no ideas as to an answer to your question, but I would like to know what you encountered. I have a 2007 Compass and at 42k I am advised to replace the tie rod and ball joint on the driver's side. For US $500 the dealership will do it for me, but I am more of a D.I.Y. type of guy, not to mention that I am frugal. [Frugal in my case is spelled c-h-e-a-p!!! ] I believe that this defect may be more prevalent than suspected.
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post #6 of 88 Old 06-18-2010, 12:16 AM
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you shouldnt need a spring compressor, its a strut assy, so nothing i compressed unless weight is on it and the upper mound will stop it from coming off, when your suspension sags after you lift it, the knuckle will actually drop lower than the bottom of the strut when let go from the strut. the biggest problems with control arms are the bolts seizing into the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing.
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post #7 of 88 Old 06-18-2010, 05:30 PM
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Good call 08, I'm used to spring suspension so it's habit. Tierod ends aren't so hard to do and ball joint changing might require a few specialty tools to get done. A lot of shops will press the ball joints in but I found that most of the time the bolts will pull them into place just as easy. I don't recall off my jeep but I believe that the ball joints and tierod ends are sealed units, I recommend replacing them with grease-able units. I know they cost more but maintenance on them makes them last much longer than sealed units.

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post #8 of 88 Old 06-19-2010, 10:01 PM
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i was going to replace mine i bought the part from the dealer jacked the front end up. looked at it for a while took the bolts off, broke a pickle fork hit it with said broken pickle fork put bolts back on and took it to the dealership its not easy and i am mechanically inclined. i did the brakes and endlinks but i can do the control arm.

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post #9 of 88 Old 06-23-2010, 12:29 AM
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Question shouldnt need a spring compressor

Quote:
Originally Posted by 08NorthSport View Post
you shouldnt need a spring compressor, its a strut assy, so nothing i compressed unless weight is on it and the upper mound will stop it from coming off, when your suspension sags after you lift it, the knuckle will actually drop lower than the bottom of the strut when let go from the strut. the biggest problems with control arms are the bolts seizing into the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing.
I watched the mechanic at my dealership do mine . . . can't imagine trying it without the spring compressor . . . good luck

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post #10 of 88 Old 06-23-2010, 09:46 AM
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I watched the mechanic at my dealership do mine . . . can't imagine trying it without the spring compressor . . . good luck
are you sure he was using a spring compressor and not a transmission jack to compress the suspension once bolted together, to get the bottom of the strut into place. i have never seen a spring compressor used to do a control arm in the 10 years of beng a mechanic.

i dont mean to undermind you, im just trying to visualize what your saying
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post #11 of 88 Old 06-23-2010, 10:57 PM
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You can use a jack to relieve the pressure if you're careful. I usually put a chain around mine just to make sure nothing unexpected that happens will hit me. That's why I keep mechanic friends too, don't have to know how to do everything.

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post #12 of 88 Old 06-24-2010, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08NorthSport View Post
are you sure he was using a spring compressor and not a transmission jack to compress the suspension once bolted together, to get the bottom of the strut into place. i have never seen a spring compressor used to do a control arm in the 10 years of beng a mechanic.

i dont mean to undermind you, im just trying to visualize what your saying
No, not sure at all...you are most probably right. - i2

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post #13 of 88 Old 07-23-2010, 05:13 PM
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Thank goodness for this forum.

Waiting until Monday to hear back from Chrysler on approving repairs post-warranty. (I am at 39k, but timeline wouldn't have run out without the miles.) Dealer told me to replace 2 tire rods and a lower control arm. Plus, alignment, and naturally my tires are worn horribly too. Quote for the Dealer repair: $1,400. Yeah right. I just found tire rods for $40 each on Moog.

Gonna make sure Chrysler fixes this though since it's a known issue on earlier models, but apparently not a big enough problem for a recall...
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post #14 of 88 Old 07-24-2010, 01:14 PM
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Collen, welcome to the forum....tell us more about yourself and keep us posted on the progress of your situation with Chrysler...........

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post #15 of 88 Old 07-26-2010, 05:38 AM
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Welcome to the forum Colleen. Sorry to hear about your problem. If you have a good dealership near you that's willing to work with you, sometimes they will grandfather it in and take care of it as a warranty repair. Worth checking into. Noticed what I thought was a problem with my truck so I went to the most reputable dealer around seeing as how the one I bought it from closed. They couldn't find anything, but told me if it gets worse, I could bring it back and they would do the repair, even after my warranty expires so long as I don't exceed 40K miles since I now have documentation of a complaint. Good luck and keep us posted.

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post #16 of 88 Old 09-07-2010, 07:16 PM
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Thumbs down 2008 jeep compass lower arms

I have had my vehical for over 3years, which i bought new and just found out i need front right and left lower arms....and 2 new tires...total 1114.83. I think this is crazy...they say warranty does not cover considered wear and tear but 3 different mechanics say this should not be on an 2008 vehicle with only 39,000. miles on it. I managed to get both front arms done for 550. and 2 tires for 200.00 so it cost 750.00 but come on i only had this for 3 years...where i had other vehicles for over 10 and never had to replace this before.......after this even though i love my vehicle i will think twice about purchasing another chysler/gegnas vehicle again.... hey what about the 9.95 lifetime oil is no longer in effect.....thats bull two.
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post #17 of 88 Old 09-08-2010, 11:25 AM
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I hate hearing front end troubles. I had tie rods done under guarantee.
(But I did buy extended guarantee) and it seems if we have inherent week front ends something should come from the maker.
For sure they are not responsible for ruined tires but they should stand up for something here.
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post #18 of 88 Old 09-08-2010, 11:31 AM
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McDowell..welcome to the forum...........too bad for your ordeal ..hopefully all be OK at the end........tell us more about you and your ride ......

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post #19 of 88 Old 09-14-2010, 11:37 PM
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I just had the lower control arms replaced at a Chrysler dealership at 75,000km. It was about $900.00 for parts and labour. Next time I'll go somewhere different and get aftermarket parts put on, hopefully they will last longer.
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post #20 of 88 Old 09-16-2010, 02:44 AM
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Value of warrantee

I just had my lower control arms replaced at 43000km - covered under warrantee.
Second front end repair under warrantee this year.

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post #21 of 88 Old 09-16-2010, 09:11 PM
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Whats wearing all these front ends out on the Compasses. I have never seen it happen in any of my vehicles. Although I did replace tie rod ends on my GC but it has over 200k km on it but no tire problems just steering play.

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post #22 of 88 Old 09-16-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey01 View Post
You can use a jack to relieve the pressure if you're careful. I usually put a chain around mine just to make sure nothing unexpected that happens will hit me. That's why I keep mechanic friends too, don't have to know how to do everything.
Yeah, I bet you also put one around your buddy when he's helping you and your girl. Just to be safe. Eh??

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post #23 of 88 Old 09-18-2010, 01:12 AM
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Whats wearing all these front ends out on the Compasses. I have never seen it happen in any of my vehicles. Although I did replace tie rod ends on my GC but it has over 200k km on it but no tire problems just steering play.
Could it be our roads in Montreal?

Meanwhile three weeks prior, I went to the local tire specialist and had them rotate (front to back/back to fronts) my tires, having noticed the small noise from time to time, like going over a bump, slowly while turning, i asked them to check the suspension all the stuff connected to the wheels and they told me all was OK> The dealer does not mind finding something under warrantee to make me happy and the sound go away.
But I could have gone months until the noise became a real problem and a safety issue based on my confidence in the tire shops mechanics.

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post #24 of 88 Old 09-27-2010, 07:49 PM
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I went to have rivnuts installed last week, at the dealership. $100.00 to do that, but anyhow.... THey discovered that my drivers side ball joint is bad, and the drivers side bushig, in the lower control arm, is bad. I love Chrysler 4bangers, but I have had to replace control arms in all, before 50K miles. Very frustrating, and even more discouraging to think of another car. It's probably best to keep the ones I got, going a long time.3rd post.................
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post #25 of 88 Old 09-27-2010, 07:50 PM
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I forgot to mention that the rivnuts were for the skidplates. and they messed up two rivnuts, that spin now.
Oh well
And 4th post..........................
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post #26 of 88 Old 10-04-2010, 11:16 PM
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We replaced my controll arms this weekend, and at 1st, everything was fine, but slowly, it's knocking again. Even on modest bumps, or cracks in the road. Or when I turn the wheel, and the weight of the car adjusts.
I drove less then 100 miles since we got them in. Jacked it up today, and checked torque on all bolts, as per manual. I looked at sway bar bushing, they look fine.
Any ideas out there?
I really don't want to take it to the dealer. I just know they will tell me that we did wrong, and the whole front suspension will have to be replaced. I had a 97 2.4 caravan that needed 1st suspension replacement, at 175K miles. Wish this compass would be of the same quality.
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post #27 of 88 Old 10-05-2010, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
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We replaced my controll arms this weekend, and at 1st, everything was fine, but slowly, it's knocking again. Even on modest bumps, or cracks in the road. Or when I turn the wheel, and the weight of the car adjusts.
I drove less then 100 miles since we got them in. Jacked it up today, and checked torque on all bolts, as per manual. I looked at sway bar bushing, they look fine.
Any ideas out there?
I really don't want to take it to the dealer. I just know they will tell me that we did wrong, and the whole front suspension will have to be replaced. I had a 97 2.4 caravan that needed 1st suspension replacement, at 175K miles. Wish this compass would be of the same quality.
Well haven't experience with that area at this time on mine. But it appears you have either missed a part which is worn out or lose. Other than that something is not as tight as it should be. You should be able to isolate the sound to the front or rear and go from there with your wrench and check it out. Maybe the vehicle needs to be on jacks to check the wheel pivot points (UP/DOWN) for play/sloppy movement.

PS: I sold my 97 Caravan with 198k on it and the front suspension was original except for one front sway bar support rod. The pivot bearing worn and popped off the rod. Struts etc were original and all pass certification by the buyer without doing anything.

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post #28 of 88 Old 10-05-2010, 07:44 PM
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I just got back from the shop (not the dealer), and they think it might be an outer tie rod, on the drivers side. I asked him to check my work on the controll arms, and he said all was good. He also heard the thunking, as he put it, and says that it does ssound as if it's coming from both sides. He sudgest that I replace the drivers tie rod, and see how that goes. He showed me the tie rod, and it did move...a bit. I'll update on here, when I figure this out.
P.S. My 97 minivan is still going, and I hear it needs a CVJ. She said that it's got over 250K miles on it. She was a great car, and I'm glad that she's still going.
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post #29 of 88 Old 10-05-2010, 08:05 PM
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I have not experienced tie rod end causing a thunking. In my Grand you'd only get steering play but nothing noise wise when hitting bumps.

I'll watch what happens but has he or you check the struts. There is a TSB for replacement of a different design by another member.

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4x4, 2.4L, CVT
North Edition
heated seats, TPMS
General Altimax RT43 P225/65R17
Yellow Fog Lamps
CLASS III Curtis Hitch
SOLD @ 153,000km Oct. 2018 THE END !!
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post #30 of 88 Old 10-08-2010, 07:04 PM
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Okay, one week later, I'm still having issues. I'm scared to drive the Compass, but only because of the noise. I lifted the front end, took off the wheels, even took out the brake pads. I can't find anything.
so I braved up a trip to the dealership, not that far from here, just bad roads. When I got there, they were really interested in what was wrong with my car, 'till I said I just wanted a diagnoses. Then all of a sudden, it's gonna be Weds. before he can get the car in for a look.
I don't want to harp on Chrysler, I know what diemler did to them. I accept I have a diemler car. But I'm sure tired of the whole experience with this car. Even things I can't blame on Chrysler, the dealers are my biggest issue.
Anyhow, I'm going to run and get new tie rod ends, and throw them on. See what happens, wish me luck, and thanks for letting me vent. I know I'll get it...............
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