2007 2.4L Cam Chain Removal - Jeep Compass Forum
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 11-30-2017, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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2007 2.4L Cam Chain Removal

I looked around the internet and did not see any real good "How To" on getting to the cam chain and tensioner assembly on a Jeep/Chrysler 2.4L. I pulled mine apart last night and figured I would post the proceedure. I didn't think to get pictures but if there are any questions I can probably get some when putting it back together.

1. Valve cover removal. Pull the plastic cover off of the engine. Unscrew the plastic pieces that attach the engine cover. I was able to take them off by hand. All of the valve cover bolts are 8mm. The ones with the plastic pieces require a deep well. There is one on the passenger side of the engine that has a wiring harness. Pull it off and push out of the way. There are 4 bolts in the center of the valve cover near the coils. There are rubber hoses on each end of the valve cover. One is the pcv valve, the other is a vent. Both just pull off. You can remove the coils from the valve cover but I just removed the electrical connectors and pulled the valve cover with them still attached.

2. Remove the three bolts holding the washer fluid, radiator surge tank, and power steering reservoir. Unplug the electrical connector to the washer pump. All can be moved out of the way without removing the fluid lines.

3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

4. Raise the vehicle until the right front tire is about three inches off of the ground. Put it on a jack stand and remove the wheel. Make sure the wheel was about three inches off of the ground while on jack stand. This will allow enough room to pull the timing cover out the bottom when you get there.

5. Remove the the plastic cover that surrounds the bottom of the engine. There are a couple connectors that require a phillip's screw driver and three of four that require the cap to be pried off and then will just pull out. I had a couple broken from someone previous that will be replaced when reinstalling.

6. Drain the oil. Really only requires removing about a quart and a half so the level is below the timing cover when it is removed. Otherwise the quart and a half will be on your garage floor. I will clean that up later.

7. Support the engine. I used a flat block of wood and a small jack to just take the pressure off of the engine. You are not lifting the engine here, just taking the weight off.

8. Using a 16mm wrench on the belt tensioner, remove the serpentine belt.

9. From the top of the engine remove the H shaped motor mount connector. There will be three 14mm bolts coming up and one 13mm bolt holding a metal line. Then remove the through bolt that goes through the motor mount. It is a 17mm bolt with a captured nut on the other end so no need to put a wrench on the nut. Pull the metal connector out. Next remove the three bolts that hold the motor mount to the inner fender. There are three and they are 15mm. Lift it out of the way and you can get to the mounting point from the timing cover. There are three 14mm bolts and one 13mm.

10. Using a 15mm wrench remove the upper idler pulley. Then using a 13mm wrench remove the top bolt for the belt tensioner. Take out all of the bolts to the timing cover that you can get to from above. On each corner there are 12mm bolts and a couple more down the side. The remainder are 10mm.

11. Remove the bottom crankshaft pulley. I'm sure it is metric but a 7/8 socket and impact did the trick. I have read where suggestions were to use a breaker bar against the frame and hitting the ignition switch to turn the engine and break it loose. My 1/2 inch impact did not have any trouble. I had a three jaw puller on hand but was surprised to find that the pulley just slid off. You will need the bolt later to turn the engine to get it to TDC. Leave it out for now to give more room to remove the timing cover. There is not a lot of room and every little bit helps.

12. Remove the bottom air conditioner bracket. There is one bolt coming from the bottom and two bolts coming in from the side. Then remove the long bolt going through the air conditioner compressor and bracket. The bracket will then drop out.

13. Remove the bottom idler pulley and the bottom bolt to the belt tensioner.

14. Remove the water pump pulley. There are three 10mm bolts and no room for a ratchet. I used a box end wrench and a pair of pliers to hold the pulley from turning. The shape of the pulley did not allow me to use a thin screw driver between the bolt to hold it. They were a little tough but did manage to get them loose but I did bang my knuckles on each one.

15. Remove the remaining bolts surrounding the timing cover, most are 10mm but have a couple of 12mm mixed in. There is one bolt in the center of the cover that has to come out as well.

16. I used a plastic wedge that was handy and pried the timing cover away from the engine at the top. I then pried the bottom from below. (That was when I realized I should have drained some oil.) Once free from the oil pan seal it can be pulled out away from the crankshaft. Once loose it can be maneuvered out the bottom.

17. Easy right? Now you have open access to the timing chain and followers. The follower/tensioner on the back side of the engine is held in by one 10mm bolt at the top. The hydraulic tensioner is held in by two 10mm bolts. I have not removed the front follower but looks like two 10mm bolts and it will come out.

Total time for my first time doing this was about two hours.

Last edited by Bart; 11-30-2017 at 09:54 PM.
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post #2 of 3 Old 12-01-2017, 02:45 PM
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Thanks for sharing this with us! It would be nice to have a photo for each step, but even without them, it helps a lot. What happened to you chain cam? Why did you change it?

Thanks
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post #3 of 3 Old 12-04-2017, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't think of doing a how to until I was almost done taking it apart. I will have a camera handy next time I have to do something major on it.

The hydraulic tensioner went bad and it jumped time. I bought an aftermarket sent off of Amazon. Instead of painted links to line up to the new chain has copper plated links. When comparing the new chain to the old one it does appear to have stretched some. Putting it back together was pretty basic. Just reverse of taking it apart.

A couple of points to help out:

1. When installing the water pump pulley, lower the engine until the water pump shaft is visible below the inner fender. This makes it a lot easier to get the water pump pulley bolts started.

2. The motor mounting plate that goes on the front of the timing cover must go on before the top idler pulley. There are two bolts that can not be reached after the pulley is on.
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