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Hi. I need help to understand what is causing the issue of no heat when the temperature knob is turned to hot. The heater core input and outpout pipes are hot. the area around heater core is hot. But cold air is coming out of vents. I hear no noise when I adjust temp from cold to hot.

Is it the temperature knob that has gone bad? or is it the blend doors stuck. I want to fix it myself. if anyone out there knows how to trouble shoot the problem and then know how to fix it, I welcome your advice.

I did check fuses in cabin. are there any fuses in engine compartment I should look for?

Thank You,
Ted
 

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I assume the "cold air is coming out of the vents" means the blower is working at all its speeds. I think there were changes in 2011 but my heater control is mechanical not and electronic damper adjustment via the control. If you're getting cold with each position of the directional control with the blower up near full then the door must not be moving.

If yours is cable controlled pulling the glove box out give a better access to the controls at the ducting. You might be able to see what is not working.
 

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Blower does run at every speed

Hi... The blower does run at every speed. Plus i can change the location of the air from floor to defrost to dash. I have removed the glove box and observed the movement of the gear that activates the different air flow direction.. that gear movement looked as if it was electronically being actuated with cables. I will have to look more closely at that duct work to see what isn't moving.


I was told that maybe the blend doors to regulate heat would be near the heater core which is right above to the right of gas peddle. And to get to them, part of the dash would have to be removed. I would need instructions on how to do that.

I was thinking that it could be the temp control knob that went bad ... do you know if they are difficult to remove?
 

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On mine the controls came out with the bezle around the radio. I had a dealer pull it out 5 times to properly reconnect the multimode plug behind because they weren't doing it right. It took them that many times. You might see it a bit from there.

However, I doubt its the knob itself though. Heater core has always been on the passenger side in every vehicle I have seen.
 

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Yeah I know.. I went right to the passenger side expecting the core to be there and it wasn't. .. I was not happy to find it on driver side and more to center
 

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Yeah I know.. I went right to the passenger side expecting the core to be there and it wasn't. .. I was not happy to find it on driver side and more to center
FIAT designed this crappy vehicle. Always something needing fixing. Suspension problems never seem to end for me.
 

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Any update on this.

Have you tried moving any of the controls manually at the duct system to see if warm/hot air comes out somewhere.

If you do get hot air you might be able to disconnect the cable if required so it doesn't set it back to cold until a fix for the fault is available. Some heat out of the floor or vents should be ok for while.
 

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Instead of starting a new thread I'll post in this one. I saw this thread (for reference) http://www.myjeepcompass.com/forums/jeep-compass-general-discussion/20194-2007-jeep-compass-limited-heat-issue.html

This is on my mother-in-laws 2010 compass. It overheated a year ago, they took it in, the auto mechanic flushed the system, put new thermostats in, and yellow antifreeze (not sure if that is the oem color or not).

Fast forward to winter, the heat does not blow really hot air. I feel both heater core hoses, they are hot, the upper radiator hose is hot, but the lower radiator hose is not hot. So I changed both thermostats this time, thinking the auto mechanic only changed one or it was a bad one.

After doing that it still didn't fix the problem, the lower radiator pipe is cold to the touch and the heat is still cold. The temp gauge never gets that high either in the car.

Any ideas? Clogged radiator, wrong coolant, warped head, bad radiator cap?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Burp the engine block. I don't know for sure but some engines will develop a air pocket prevent proper cooling and water pump action. If its like my engine there are two thermostats. My gauge never reaches the middle position or even close but heat does come out.

However, if the heater core hoses are both hot you should get hot air if the air duct dampers move to winter mode (manual control is easier the check twisting the knob and locating the cable/arm under the dash.) As I recall the correct Antifreeze is HOAT spec which is usually pink. Many shops just put in generic prestone. LOL

So at this stage are you actually getting flow through the heater core? (Flushing with a garden hose backwards cleans it). If so the fluid coming out will be hot, very hot. Then its the duct airway controls issue.
 

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How do I burp the engine block? I used this to fill the coolant after the thermostat change:
Proto Spill Free Funnel, Plastic JFF160 | Zoro.com

Works nice, but when I ran the engine for 10 minutes sitting in the garage (with the door open) it never dropped any more in coolant level.

Also, another thing to note, when I disconnected that black housing where both thermostats are the pipe behind the block that goes into that (and I'm assuming from the water pump) did not leak any coolant. Could that be empty/air bubble?

But what I don't get is why the engine isn't running hot.
 

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I am not sure as I have not had those areas apart yet. Typically burping the block is either of two ways. Some block have a burp plug to let the air out. Otherwise getting the front end up higher than the rest of the engine so the air can find its way out the filler.

On a grade with drive on ramps usually does it. Why you did not get a got flow from the thermostat removal places would have set off alarms for me.

You might have to ask a tech at the dealer or find a shop manual on replacing the T stats.
 
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