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2019 jeep compass duel battery replacement.
Many of us have asked this question . I have not been able to find a full replacement procedure that does not have error codes after. I was left in a position by the Dealer, forcing me to try to figure out what's wrong with my car. I am not sure yet but this is the first step in the process.
Before I started, I cleared any codes. The code that was always coming up on my car is P2111( Generic Permanent) Electronic throttle Control system-Unable to close. after a full charge the error will go away but then come back with any use. It seems from other post and my problems, if the system falls below a certain charge. you get this code but it is unregistered on the check engine light. Also if the battery progress to a weaker state you will be at the point where nothing works and many different error codes will show on your obd2 but not always on the check engine light . Boosting at this point by any of the tow truck drivers was unsuccessful. Why this is, could be lack of knowledge by the drivers says the last tech to look at it.
The error code P2111 prevents the car from being started with remote start so the throttle is not wide open on remote start. What I have been doing is Not using remote start, and plugging the car in every night since it came back from its 6th visit from two separate dealers. I was using a 1.5 amp Schumacher under the hood charger, That I have just added clamps to so it can be removed every night. This gave me time to gather the info to swap both batters. I Bought the charger from Canadian tire. see picture. Picture #1 And I bought the battery's from Napa.

There is a huge story on how the dealers are screwing us over on this , but that is for another post. Let's just say that due to the state Of Chrysler the dealers have devised a plan to maximize warranty work, and allow Diagnostics to only be performed to the minimum requirement. This will lead to more service charges to the customer and more warranty work. Don't let the dealer touch your car.

Step1: Disable key less entry in settings on dash board computer, disable blind spot monitor also . This will prevent 2 things . First there will be less drain on your backup power pack. Second It prevents the car from looking for input if the doors are closed .The car is always trying to talk to the keys and detect movement . If it can see the keys it is always looking for input especially if it detects movement . Jeep expects that the car will have a power source for the full existence of the car. This is why you need a power pack and obd2 memory saver cord that plugs into a 12 volt outlet.

Step 2 : Plug in backup power pack to Obd2 port. usually you plug into the power pack first then plug the obd2 end in. I used a 600 A 120 W -Motor master ELIMINATOR, and their 12 volt obd2 memory saver cord. Again all bought from Canadian tire. See pic #2

Note : Put the keys far enough away from the car so it can't read them during this process. Also with the backup power and memory saver plugged in, the car still has a power source. Because of this,
( I can't say it enough.) Treat all the wires as live wires that could ground and cause errors. This means when I removed a wire I wrapped in electrical tape .
Read the picture I have marked out and read this whole letter before you start I know I am probably over killing this but it worked for me with no errors after the battery's were changed, and the start / stop set ready .

Step 3: In the picture of the battery's you will see (1to 8 off) in black, and (1 to 8 on in green.) we begin with( 1-8 off black) then follow all the numbers with off to remove battery's. Then we do the same for( 1 -8 on in green) to replace the battery's .


1 off: Remove main Battery negative cable and wrap it and tuck it by the wiper fill port. I tapped it to the wiper fill port to keep it out of the way.
2 off: Remove the backup battery Negative cable. again I covered it up and taped it out of the way.
3 off: Remove the duel positive cables on the left side of the main battery , and try to keep them together. I don't know if this matters but again this is what I did and no codes after. Most videos I see just let them separate and tuck them behind the hose closest to them. I tapped them together and then tapped them to the hose behind them to keep them out of the way.
4 off: Remove the red hold down piece of plastic, be careful it will break easy.
5 off : Remove the positive post from the main battery. The whole unit lifts off as one part . It was too much to tap up so, I just put a piece of rubber under it and tapped it out of the way.
6 off : Remove main battery tie down strap and remove main battery.
7 off : Remove bracket nut, from backup battery hold down rack and lift and tape it out of the way.
8 off : Remove positive post from backup battery, there are 2 wires here , again I kept them together and tapped them up. Then remove the backup battery.

Step 4 : Insert new main battery. Insert new backup battery.

1 on: connect both positive cables the same way they came off to the backup battery.
2 on : put back up battery hold down bracket back on, and bolt.
3 on: Replace main battery hold down strap.
4 on : Replace positive on main battery .
5 on : replace small red hold down piece of plastic clip
6 on : reconnect the two positive cables to the positive tray unit. Again try to keep them together.
7 on : Install the negative cable to the backup battery.
8 on :Install the negative cable to the main battery.

Step 5: Go get the keys . Remove the obd2 memory saver cord obd2 side first. Then push the start button to set engine in start mode , But don't start it. Only press the button not the brake . This will give the computer a chance to read the system without trying to start it.
If you made a mistake you should see it here. Then press the button again with no brake to cycle the system to off mode again.

Step 6 : press brake and start car. Press the disable start/stop button so the system is not trying to set ready.

I did not check the obd2 codes yet , The car started and there was no error message on screen . I drove the car for about 5 to 10 min then I pressed the button to enable the start/stop system and it set ready right away. I did not use it as I want to drive the car a bit before letting it stop/ start itself. I drove it for about 40 km . Then plugged my obd2 scanner in to see if any codes set. No codes were found all system test green. I am using an Innova 3160e. Before battery replacement my scanner tested the battery's at 11.23v with engine not running and lights on. The scanner reports this is not enough voltage. After the battery replacement. The obd2 battery tested at 12.47 v but the scanner still reports this is not enough voltage. The alternator tests comes back as 14.75 volts and the scanner reports this is more than enough to run the car. I can't find anything that says this car needs to have a battery reset after changing. I also don't know if this is normal reading for this cars alternator test. I also don't know if the service tool the dealers use can change the amount the charge system puts out based on how old the battery's are.
What I do know is this car worked fine for 2 years , with limited driving and living in the long-lasting winters we get here in Newfoundland Canada. my car now only has 9200 km and worked fine until the dealers touched it. They have all kinds of bull crap , why the car keeps dyeing. Such as the key bob is killing the new backup battery they installed at 6000km after 2 years of use. Or they say I need to drive it more. More bull crap. It worked fine before they touched it , and from what I can see you need to replace both battery's at the same time or the old one will not get the same charge anymore. There is the small connector on the Negative cable of the main battery that most people are just unplugging to disable the auto start/stop. This prevents the computer from monitoring the battery's voltage thus preventing major codes being set if it is to cold or the battery are getting old. My question to that process is what happens to the backup battery if you run like this for 2 or more years. The system is no longer monitor the voltage in the main battery . What is it doing to the backup. This must be a manufactures band aid . You can now buy a wire harness that plugs in on the brake pedal, that bypasses the whole auto start/stop system. To be able to create such a harness the manufacture had to be involved. No matter who makes the Harness they all say it will not void your warranty. Clearly the car has a manufacturing defect that they are trying to fix with more band aids. There are several cases in the States that have these cars shutting off at highway speeds . Mine did it once in the drive way shutdown and restarted while the car was in motion. There is no doubt that there needs to be an investigation. I have made a report to transport Canada, but they are not getting back to me with any info. Just like Chrysler Is not talking and just like consumer affairs is not talking. In Canada there is no lemon law. We have a program called CANVAP . But Chrysler has pulled out of this program. The dealers are doing the bare minimum so they can deal with all the cut backs Chrysler is putting on them . These leaves customers with cars that may not be safe, and will put you in the poor house trying to keep your brand new car running.
Since I did not get any error codes or messages after my battery changes. my next step is to get the old battery's load tested. That might tell me something. Other than that all I can do at this point is drive the car normally for a month or so and see if the problem comes back. I am sorry if I am not coherent with all my writing, but it is way more than I need to be learning for a brand new car. I bought a new car because I take care of a handicap person and a reliable car is a necessity. I bought a new car because I don't have the time to be fixing an old car all the time. With service like this , there is no way we are going to be able to move into a green world with the new electric car mandate and the Paris accord. Those things are moving forward with a " Let the chips fall where they may " attitude.

God save us! If he can't save us, please don't help them!
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I can't find anything that says this car needs to have a battery reset after changing.
I haven't been able to find any data on that either. I know some car's you actually need to tell the computer that the battery was changed, because it allegedly adjusts how it charges the battery over the course of its life. I can't find any info on whether the 2nd gen Compass is one of those cars. The fact that AlfaOBD has no procedure for resetting or changing the battery is an indication to me that the Compass is not one of those types of cars, but who knows.

from what I can see you need to replace both battery's at the same time
This is true. Both batteries have to work 100% and be in good health for the car to operate properly, especially if you want Stop/Start to work correctly. The charging system for the aux battery is very crude, its just a big relay that switches on and off to connect it to the other battery and the alternator. You don't want those batteries to be way imbalanced by one being new and one being old and weak.

--------------------------------------------

Overall I agree with at least 90-95% of what you wrote up. Could debate some of the specifics but overall good work, glad you got your car working, sorry to hear it was so much trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't been able to find any data on that either. I know some car's you actually need to tell the computer that the battery was changed, because it allegedly adjusts how it charges the battery over the course of its life. I can't find any info on whether the 2nd gen Compass is one of those cars. The fact that AlfaOBD has no procedure for resetting or changing the battery is an indication to me that the Compass is not one of those types of cars, but who knows.



This is true. Both batteries have to work 100% and be in good health for the car to operate properly, especially if you want Stop/Start to work correctly. The charging system for the aux battery is very crude, its just a big relay that switches on and off to connect it to the other battery and the alternator. You don't want those batteries to be way imbalanced by one being new and one being old and weak.

--------------------------------------------

Overall I agree with at least 90-95% of what you wrote up. Could debate some of the specifics but overall good work, glad you got your car working, sorry to hear it was so much trouble.
Do you know what the battery,s should be testing at with a OBD2. Engine on but not running, and lights on. Also do you know what the alternator should be testing at. Have you used any of the band aids such as , unplging the voltage reader on main battery negative post, or installed the wire harness that is for sale on the brake peddle?
 

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I replaced both my batteries a couple weeks ago Both from (NAPA AGM)
Disconnected the ground wires, than the positives. I made sure I did not ground anything out by wrapping and securing all the cable out of my way. Removed and replaced as I would any battery. This is actually the 2nd time I have had them out and removed them. First time was to bench test (load test) the batteries. Installed the new batteries, tightened everything up and good to go. No issues at all. Maybe Canadian vehicles have some things that we don't in the states. After discounts and core returns, I paid $205.00 and some change total for both batteries at NAPA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I replaced both my batteries a couple weeks ago Both from (NAPA AGM)
Disconnected the ground wires, than the positives. I made sure I did not ground anything out by wrapping and securing all the cable out of my way. Removed and replaced as I would any battery. This is actually the 2nd time I have had them out and removed them. First time was to bench test (load test) the batteries. Installed the new batteries, tightened everything up and good to go. No issues at all. Maybe Canadian vehicles have some things that we don't in the states. After discounts and core returns, I paid $205.00 and some change total for both batteries at NAPA.
Since I did not get any error codes or messages after my battery changes. my next step is to get the old battery's load tested. That might tell me something. Other than that all I can do at this point is drive the car normally for a month or so and see if the problem comes back. I am sorry if I am not coherent with all my writing, but it is way more than I need to be learning for a brand new car. I bought a new car because I take care of a handicap person and a reliable car is a necessity. I bought a new car because I don't have the time to be fixing an old car all the time. With service like this , there is no way we are going to be able to move into a green world with the new electric car mandate and the Paris accord. Those things are moving forward with a " Let the chips fall where they may " attitude.

God save us! If he can't save us, please don't help them!
View attachment 15654 View attachment 15655
View attachment 15656
View attachment 15657
Update : 4 days later , auto /stop start not ready. Battery charging . ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update : 4 days later , auto /stop start not ready. Battery charging . ??
Up date: Oct 30 , system Has been setting ready , regularly. I will run another battery / alternator test . I am hopping to see different numbers . I am hoping the sysytem just needed time to adjust its charge rates based on use, and condition of the new battery's. I am also still running with passive entry and blind spot turned off. I am not using remote start . Just so if anything does stop working . I can better track the source of the problem . As time goes on I will enable the other systems one at a time. I am also running the car for a 20 min at lest, for any use ,and once a week take it out at hwy way speeds of 110 km . I was doing this at the recommendation of the dealers when the car was dying all the time, but it did not help. I just want to satisfy the fact the the original repair was done incorrect. Both battery's have to be replaced at the same time . The Ess system is redundant, If after a battery is a year old or better you need to drive the car more to keep the system functional . You are now Burning more fuel , causing more pollution , and creating problems in traffic when you sit there trying to restart the car.
 

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2019 jeep compass duel battery replacement.
Many of us have asked this question . I have not been able to find a full replacement procedure that does not have error codes after. I was left in a position by the Dealer, forcing me to try to figure out what's wrong with my car. I am not sure yet but this is the first step in the process.
Before I started, I cleared any codes. The code that was always coming up on my car is P2111( Generic Permanent) Electronic throttle Control system-Unable to close. after a full charge the error will go away but then come back with any use. It seems from other post and my problems, if the system falls below a certain charge. you get this code but it is unregistered on the check engine light. Also if the battery progress to a weaker state you will be at the point where nothing works and many different error codes will show on your obd2 but not always on the check engine light . Boosting at this point by any of the tow truck drivers was unsuccessful. Why this is, could be lack of knowledge by the drivers says the last tech to look at it.
The error code P2111 prevents the car from being started with remote start so the throttle is not wide open on remote start. What I have been doing is Not using remote start, and plugging the car in every night since it came back from its 6th visit from two separate dealers. I was using a 1.5 amp Schumacher under the hood charger, That I have just added clamps to so it can be removed every night. This gave me time to gather the info to swap both batters. I Bought the charger from Canadian tire. see picture. Picture #1 And I bought the battery's from Napa.

There is a huge story on how the dealers are screwing us over on this , but that is for another post. Let's just say that due to the state Of Chrysler the dealers have devised a plan to maximize warranty work, and allow Diagnostics to only be performed to the minimum requirement. This will lead to more service charges to the customer and more warranty work. Don't let the dealer touch your car.

Step1: Disable key less entry in settings on dash board computer, disable blind spot monitor also . This will prevent 2 things . First there will be less drain on your backup power pack. Second It prevents the car from looking for input if the doors are closed .The car is always trying to talk to the keys and detect movement . If it can see the keys it is always looking for input especially if it detects movement . Jeep expects that the car will have a power source for the full existence of the car. This is why you need a power pack and obd2 memory saver cord that plugs into a 12 volt outlet.

Step 2 : Plug in backup power pack to Obd2 port. usually you plug into the power pack first then plug the obd2 end in. I used a 600 A 120 W -Motor master ELIMINATOR, and their 12 volt obd2 memory saver cord. Again all bought from Canadian tire. See pic #2

Note : Put the keys far enough away from the car so it can't read them during this process. Also with the backup power and memory saver plugged in, the car still has a power source. Because of this,
( I can't say it enough.) Treat all the wires as live wires that could ground and cause errors. This means when I removed a wire I wrapped in electrical tape .
Read the picture I have marked out and read this whole letter before you start I know I am probably over killing this but it worked for me with no errors after the battery's were changed, and the start / stop set ready .

Step 3: In the picture of the battery's you will see (1to 8 off) in black, and (1 to 8 on in green.) we begin with( 1-8 off black) then follow all the numbers with off to remove battery's. Then we do the same for( 1 -8 on in green) to replace the battery's .


1 off: Remove main Battery negative cable and wrap it and tuck it by the wiper fill port. I tapped it to the wiper fill port to keep it out of the way.
2 off: Remove the backup battery Negative cable. again I covered it up and taped it out of the way.
3 off: Remove the duel positive cables on the left side of the main battery , and try to keep them together. I don't know if this matters but again this is what I did and no codes after. Most videos I see just let them separate and tuck them behind the hose closest to them. I tapped them together and then tapped them to the hose behind them to keep them out of the way.
4 off: Remove the red hold down piece of plastic, be careful it will break easy.
5 off : Remove the positive post from the main battery. The whole unit lifts off as one part . It was too much to tap up so, I just put a piece of rubber under it and tapped it out of the way.
6 off : Remove main battery tie down strap and remove main battery.
7 off : Remove bracket nut, from backup battery hold down rack and lift and tape it out of the way.
8 off : Remove positive post from backup battery, there are 2 wires here , again I kept them together and tapped them up. Then remove the backup battery.

Step 4 : Insert new main battery. Insert new backup battery.

1 on: connect both positive cables the same way they came off to the backup battery.
2 on : put back up battery hold down bracket back on, and bolt.
3 on: Replace main battery hold down strap.
4 on : Replace positive on main battery .
5 on : replace small red hold down piece of plastic clip
6 on : reconnect the two positive cables to the positive tray unit. Again try to keep them together.
7 on : Install the negative cable to the backup battery.
8 on :Install the negative cable to the main battery.

Step 5: Go get the keys . Remove the obd2 memory saver cord obd2 side first. Then push the start button to set engine in start mode , But don't start it. Only press the button not the brake . This will give the computer a chance to read the system without trying to start it.
If you made a mistake you should see it here. Then press the button again with no brake to cycle the system to off mode again.

Step 6 : press brake and start car. Press the disable start/stop button so the system is not trying to set ready.

I did not check the obd2 codes yet , The car started and there was no error message on screen . I drove the car for about 5 to 10 min then I pressed the button to enable the start/stop system and it set ready right away. I did not use it as I want to drive the car a bit before letting it stop/ start itself. I drove it for about 40 km . Then plugged my obd2 scanner in to see if any codes set. No codes were found all system test green. I am using an Innova 3160e. Before battery replacement my scanner tested the battery's at 11.23v with engine not running and lights on. The scanner reports this is not enough voltage. After the battery replacement. The obd2 battery tested at 12.47 v but the scanner still reports this is not enough voltage. The alternator tests comes back as 14.75 volts and the scanner reports this is more than enough to run the car. I can't find anything that says this car needs to have a battery reset after changing. I also don't know if this is normal reading for this cars alternator test. I also don't know if the service tool the dealers use can change the amount the charge system puts out based on how old the battery's are.
What I do know is this car worked fine for 2 years , with limited driving and living in the long-lasting winters we get here in Newfoundland Canada. my car now only has 9200 km and worked fine until the dealers touched it. They have all kinds of bull crap , why the car keeps dyeing. Such as the key bob is killing the new backup battery they installed at 6000km after 2 years of use. Or they say I need to drive it more. More bull crap. It worked fine before they touched it , and from what I can see you need to replace both battery's at the same time or the old one will not get the same charge anymore. There is the small connector on the Negative cable of the main battery that most people are just unplugging to disable the auto start/stop. This prevents the computer from monitoring the battery's voltage thus preventing major codes being set if it is to cold or the battery are getting old. My question to that process is what happens to the backup battery if you run like this for 2 or more years. The system is no longer monitor the voltage in the main battery . What is it doing to the backup. This must be a manufactures band aid . You can now buy a wire harness that plugs in on the brake pedal, that bypasses the whole auto start/stop system. To be able to create such a harness the manufacture had to be involved. No matter who makes the Harness they all say it will not void your warranty. Clearly the car has a manufacturing defect that they are trying to fix with more band aids. There are several cases in the States that have these cars shutting off at highway speeds . Mine did it once in the drive way shutdown and restarted while the car was in motion. There is no doubt that there needs to be an investigation. I have made a report to transport Canada, but they are not getting back to me with any info. Just like Chrysler Is not talking and just like consumer affairs is not talking. In Canada there is no lemon law. We have a program called CANVAP . But Chrysler has pulled out of this program. The dealers are doing the bare minimum so they can deal with all the cut backs Chrysler is putting on them . These leaves customers with cars that may not be safe, and will put you in the poor house trying to keep your brand new car running.
Since I did not get any error codes or messages after my battery changes. my next step is to get the old battery's load tested. That might tell me something. Other than that all I can do at this point is drive the car normally for a month or so and see if the problem comes back. I am sorry if I am not coherent with all my writing, but it is way more than I need to be learning for a brand new car. I bought a new car because I take care of a handicap person and a reliable car is a necessity. I bought a new car because I don't have the time to be fixing an old car all the time. With service like this , there is no way we are going to be able to move into a green world with the new electric car mandate and the Paris accord. Those things are moving forward with a " Let the chips fall where they may " attitude.

God save us! If he can't save us, please don't help them!
View attachment 15654 View attachment 15655
View attachment 15656
View attachment 15657
You did a lot of detailed work…but I will tell I did much of the same…two batteries both holding charge…car kills them overnight…so I also now leave hooked up to a charger overnight…I drive with extra oil a battery jump starter and a bunch of tools… certain ones are lemons…that’s a fact…and if you get one of those…there is no fix…it’s either bad software or perhaps a bad harness…either I’ve given up trying to figure it out…I just drive with the necessary tools to start her up and pray it doesn’t get worse…good luck…wish you the best…
 
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