My Jeep Compass Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,897 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I don't know if it was Murphy messing with me but I certainly blew it this time doing my own repair.

The problem with the A-arm change is with the mount at the rear which has to have the vertical bolt going threw it. Its not flat and on an angle so you cannot just line it up and slide it through. I got the front in and the ball joint post into the casting but not it. After hours I had to WALK to a dentist appointment. Getting back I tore into it again trying to pry it into alignment. No way so I tries the reverse sort of what I did before. I unbolted the front horizontal bolt and pulled the a-arm out allowing more movement for the rear one. Trying to get a better angle I determined before that if the strut was compressed it would line up better. I used a jack to raise the compress the strut by jacking under the ball joint. Well bad move there. the short drive shaft came out too far in all the prying etc and fluid started coming out slowing then faster. I figure I lost litre and according to a dealer its CVT fluid the expensive stuff. That shaft in the transmission severs as a PLUG keep the fluid in. Lesson learned so with one bolt still unable to install and fluid lost as well as uncertainty of the shaft back in.

I called a flat bed tow truck and its gone to the dealer to finish it off and get the CVT level back to spec. What I am saying is be careful working on the front that the shafts do not come out too far or you'll be buggered for sure. I don't know how they can get that A-Arm in so easy as I saw from a distance one being done on a hoist but this one back fired big time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
****!!!!!!! really bad luck!!!!!

When the mechanics replace the bushins in both the A-arms, they firs install the front part, then the rear, and once that was installed and bolted, they put the ball joint in the a-arm. i saw that easy and the guy didnt have problems. I dont know if that is under procedure, but i saw that easy.

I dont know if it is why now i am having problems withe the inner and outer tie rods. I wears too fast.

Maybe that angle of the rear bushing helps.

well i hope your car is back sooon.

cheerssss
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,897 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The inner tie rod is in behind a shield and dust/dirt should not affect it. Get Moog as I did or equivalent and you should be fine. My passenger side is still ok after 30k or so now after 100k I am replacing or attempted to do the drivers side. Big failure as you know. I think the back has to be pinned with the bolt first then the front and followed by the ball joint pin. But watch the drive shaft is not pulled out too far. I won't be doing it for some time again now.

School of hard knocks !!! Still learning. LOL But I was not laughing I was cursing quite a bit...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
i replaced my lower suspension wishbone last sunday took me 2h including painting the front subframe with gloss black paint.

i found it difficult to line up the rear mounting but if you put the rear mounting in first at a suitable angle to get the bolt in then put the bolt in loose then slide the front silent block bush in to its position, then put that bolt in and finally line up the ball joint it all seemed quite simple to me.

i am a mechanical engineer with a background in installation and commissioning so perhaps this helped?
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top