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Don't expect there to be the plug for the ACC in the wheel. The car will most likely have a different harness. This means you will need to get the wiring diagrams and wire it up yourself. You will also need the male and female pins, and the male connector plug that goes into the ACC switch.

You will be adding the missing wires from the switch to the clockspring, and then from the clock spring to wherever the wiring diagrams say - probably the car's main computer module and the cluster.

It is not hard. I've done this sort of thing many times retrofitting equipment and functions to my other cars. But don't expect to just pop in the switch, as I am 99% sure there will be nothing to plug it into.
I think it has the same wiring. You replace the regular cruiser control switches with the ACC switches. It has a plug that does into where regular CC plug goes into. They basically dont have a dedicated wiring going into the BCM or ECM, it just connects to a plug on the steering wheel. Below are the diagrams for both modules;

https://www.moparpartsinc.com/a/Jeep__Compass/75688338__7513688/Adaptive-Cruise-Control/i2387852.html

https://www.moparpartsinc.com/a/Jeep_2018_Compass/75632153__7587738/Switches--Steering-Column-And-Steering-Wheel/i2384074.html
 

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Just chiming in randomly because @84z28 said
The only Jeep vehicle that you can calibrate the speedo for bigger tires is a wrangler
I noticed in AlfaOBD there is a new option in the BCM configuration changes for "Tire Circumference". I am certain that was not there before, must have came with an update at some point? It does not say what units to enter either (centimeters, millimeters, inches, etc), but we should be able to derive that from reading the stock value. I have to say, I am extremely gun-shy of plugging the obdlink mx back in after the rucus with my Uconnect screen going haywire. I managed to make all the configuration changes I wanted prior to the dealer replacing the radio, and now that everything is working the way I want it (screen not screwed up, ESS disabled, seatbelt warning disabled) I don't really want to risk it by plugging in again. My wife would rather I leave it alone too xD
 

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I dont have much experience with the AlfaOBD, if you can calibrate a specific tire size out of the realm of the tire options that comes from the factory I would be shocked but it would be a nice step forward

Just chiming in randomly because @84z28 said


I noticed in AlfaOBD there is a new option in the BCM configuration changes for "Tire Circumference". I am certain that was not there before, must have came with an update at some point? It does not say what units to enter either (centimeters, millimeters, inches, etc), but we should be able to derive that from reading the stock value. I have to say, I am extremely gun-shy of plugging the obdlink mx back in after the rucus with my Uconnect screen going haywire. I managed to make all the configuration changes I wanted prior to the dealer replacing the radio, and now that everything is working the way I want it (screen not screwed up, ESS disabled, seatbelt warning disabled) I don't really want to risk it by plugging in again. My wife would rather I leave it alone too xD
 

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Just haven't had time to mess with getting the airbag cover off the wheel. Once that is done, the rest of the testing is easy. If you can figure out the trick to popping the cover, I'll all ears.
 

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Just haven't had time to mess with getting the airbag cover off the wheel. Once that is done, the rest of the testing is easy. If you can figure out the trick to popping the cover, I'll all ears.


I’m going to be doing the same, I have a fully loaded limited and based on my 20 + years in the collision repair industry, it’ll be wired for it since it’s part of the cruise switch, the question becomes is it programmed for it since it’s got the front collision. System since they already called the camera out front the adaptive cruise camera - it very well could be plug and play all depends on the BCM how it’s programmed .... trying a similar trick with the 4WD selector because there is two AT period for these .. 6 speed and 9 speed ... question is, is all the programming for 4 LOW & ROCK mode programmed in but without the switch it doesn’t exist ... I’ll be finding out soon on that as well
 

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I’m going to be doing the same, I have a fully loaded limited and based on my 20 + years in the collision repair industry, it’ll be wired for it since it’s part of the cruise switch, the question becomes is it programmed for it since it’s got the front collision. System since they already called the camera out front the adaptive cruise camera - it very well could be plug and play all depends on the BCM how it’s programmed .... trying a similar trick with the 4WD selector because there is two AT period for these .. 6 speed and 9 speed ... question is, is all the programming for 4 LOW & ROCK mode programmed in but without the switch it doesn’t exist ... I’ll be finding out soon on that as well


It is unfortunately not plug an play, since you can see the options under AlfaOBD. But it should (hopefully) be relatively easy to activate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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n4cr2k said:
Just haven't had time to mess with getting the airbag cover off the wheel. Once that is done, the rest of the testing is easy. If you can figure out the trick to popping the cover, I'll all ears.
Most of these airbags come from the same place, this looks similar to the one on a 2016 Nissan I was driving around for about 9 months before we got our Jeep. Try expanding your youtube search out to other brands and skim through checking to see if the overall design is the same as yours (two holes, likely). I had pulled my Nissan airbag out once while installing remote start on the car, it was REALLY tricky the first time I ever tried removing an airbag and I had to pull it off again because I didn't get it back in right so had an airbag light for a while. Its just not a fun part to mess with at all. But anyways I also struggled to find a good video and finally expanded out until I found one for like a Nissan truck but the wheel and airbag was very similar and finally somebody showed a GOOD inside view of what the retaining springs look like and do and it all made sense.

Be careful what you stick in there. I was desperately trying different things and at one point I stuck something like a bit extension for a drill in there that had a retention cutout near the end (the part that locks into your tool) and the airbag spring locked onto that and I could not get it out. Do NOT stick ANYTHING in those holes that is not pretty much smooth steel all the way to the end, nothing that can snag. I had to pull unbelievably hard to get that bit extension out and was very lucky not to have damaged anything. In the end two screwdrivers did the trick but it was still hard to figure out until you see a video showing the inside and how the springs work.

Seems like pretty good odds the wiring will already be in the clock spring, as others have set. Usually all these steering wheel buttons are just sets of resistor ladders so adding a couple more values probably not an issue, but they could have their own circuit maybe.



84z28 said:
How do you connect this alfaobd to the Jeep? Special cable ?
Yep AlfaOBD is just software, either in an app on your phone or on your laptop. On the AlfaOBD homepage they list the recommended bluetooth and wifi OBDII adapters that are known to work well with it. Seems like no matter which one you buy you also have to get one or two of these "adapter cables" (blue, grey) that map the correct pinouts from the OBDII port to the bluetooth adapter so it can access different parts of the CANBUS network. There seem to be a high speed and a low speed network, and one in-between or regular standard protocol that a cheap reader would be able to access normally. They cover this in detail on the AlfaOBD site too.
 

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Most of these airbags come from the same place, this looks similar to the one on a 2016 Nissan I was driving around for about 9 months before we got our Jeep. Try expanding your youtube search out to other brands and skim through checking to see if the overall design is the same as yours (two holes, likely). I had pulled my Nissan airbag out once while installing remote start on the car, it was REALLY tricky the first time I ever tried removing an airbag and I had to pull it off again because I didn't get it back in right so had an airbag light for a while. Its just not a fun part to mess with at all. But anyways I also struggled to find a good video and finally expanded out until I found one for like a Nissan truck but the wheel and airbag was very similar and finally somebody showed a GOOD inside view of what the retaining springs look like and do and it all made sense.

Be careful what you stick in there. I was desperately trying different things and at one point I stuck something like a bit extension for a drill in there that had a retention cutout near the end (the part that locks into your tool) and the airbag spring locked onto that and I could not get it out. Do NOT stick ANYTHING in those holes that is not pretty much smooth steel all the way to the end, nothing that can snag. I had to pull unbelievably hard to get that bit extension out and was very lucky not to have damaged anything. In the end two screwdrivers did the trick but it was still hard to figure out until you see a video showing the inside and how the springs work.
From what I've read from other people on other vehicles it's exactly like you said. Not necessarily a hard procedure, just tricky to work blind and get the clip to pop. From the work I've done so far, I can feel the clip start to move when I twist a flat blade screwdriver, but it doesn't seem like enough to release it. Any bigger of a flat blade doesn't fit into the opening or is too big to maneuver inside. I probably just need to give it more time to get the finesse right.
 

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I don't want to lead you down the wrong path, its been quite a while since I did that one on the nissan but the foggy memory tells me 1) You won't have to put the screwdrivers in quite as far as you think, and 2) you are going to end up needing to either lift the handles of the screwdrivers up or push them down to move the spring. I could be way off on this though. The one on the nissan physically popped forwards towards me about 1/4 of an inch when it was freed.

Please take lots of pictures once inside as we are all eager to learn from your experience :)
 

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The issue is with getting the airbag off?
Yeah. I can't install the new switch/button controls until I can get the airbag cover off to expose the screws and wiring harness. Installing the buttons should be trivial. Then doing the car config change and proxy align is simple too. Not sure if it will work or not, but testing should be easy enough.
 

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n4cr2k a little later this weekend after jabbing the screwdrivers around a little too harsh:




This newer video might help:

 

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Wow, that video does seem helpful. That last one I saw was in Portuguese, so I couldn't follow what they were describing. Having to disconnect the battery and let it sit for a bit also slows down progress and it turns a few minutes of tinkering into a longer more drawn out process.
 

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So I took another stab at it this weekend. Still no luck. What I did notice is that in the video, they are able to inert the screwdriver almost vertically. It's perpendicular to the controls/buttons on the wheel. The holes that are in the back side of my wheel are drilled at an angle. So when I insert a screwdriver they want to go towards the center of the wheel. I would really have to torque the screwdriver or drill out the holes to get it to go straight up as effortlessly as in the video. I've already widened them a bit. I think for my next attempt I might try something like an Allen key.
 
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