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Hi all i just got back from the Dealership and they told me that the horrible sound coming from the belt side of my Compass is the alternator and it will have to be replaced. They want $700 to replace it ( $464 parts, 2 @ $110/hr labor ). I have the repair CD for the Jeep and it seems like quite a chore to replace ( remove wheel, remove AC compressor...) has anybody tried doing it themselves, is it as hard as it looks ??
 

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Have a look and see how to reach the bolts. Knowone is gong to remove all that for the alternator dealer included.
 

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It should be possible, if you have the right tool and parts.

BTW, you might look at where the noise comes from your generator, usually it is bearing, for a deeper DIY you might change the bearing only...
 

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Have a look and see how to reach the bolts. Knowone is gong to remove all that for the alternator dealer included.
i replied to this i guess it didnt send.....there is so much you have to move...not even funny i had mine done powersteering ac compressor all had to get disconnected aswell as the bearings and serplntine belt....good luck
 

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Wow, I am going to have a look when my wife comes home with it and see. That's scarey its built like that. I know A/C components are mounted behind the drivers corner bumper and didn't like that but this is really poor design hearing that.
 

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Ok, I had a look and was thinking it might be easier from underneath but I finally found the it just back of the rad and not quite midway down. Man, I hope I don't have to pull that out. Moving the rad forward or as stated unmounting the rest to get down at it from the top. The serp..belt is a must since it drives everything but have a good look at the routing to get it back at the end even though there should be chart/pic showing the belt routing its easier if you can remember most if not all the loops.

Heh is anything easy on this?
 

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just fnished replacing the alternator on my wifes compass and it was a major pain in the A$$

i kno this thread is old but i could hardly find anything online that showed how to remove it so hope the next person searching finds this helpful

u have to remove
-the pass. tire/wheel
-lower splash gaurd
-front splash gaurd just behind fender
-use belt tensioner to release tension in serp belt
-remove idler pully
-remove 2 bolts holding the ac condensor to the frame (will give more wiggle room later)

now undo lower alternator bolt and then upper bolt
-remove all 3 a/c compressor bolts (do not remove any lines) let it hang
-undo electrical at alternator
-undo one electrical plug at driver side of a/c compressor
-make sure alternator is now free

now the hard part

rotate alternator pully down towards passenger side from original positon
so that the pully points straight down and upper mounting bolt is pointing horizontal out towards the passenger side fender

push down on the ac compressor (fairly hard) to give u just barely enough room to slide the alternator out

the only thing i found online was a black and white diagram that was very vague

if u give me a few minutes i will also have a youtube video up and the link for it so u can see the one position the alternator fits when coming out of the vehicle :D
 

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How many miles on it?

Its not a job I'd look forward to. I could not believe that when Zacman started replacing his it was so involved and time intensive. Them engineers could have put it up near the top of the group of pully driven items and not the bottom.

Well done though on getting her out and set. Was it the alternator itself that failed or the ADP pulley on it? Just curious.
 

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How many miles on it?

Its not a job I'd look forward to. I could not believe that when Zacman started replacing his it was so involved and time intensive. Them engineers could have put it up near the top of the group of pully driven items and not the bottom.

Well done though on getting her out and set. Was it the alternator itself that failed or the ADP pulley on it? Just curious.
it was the ADP pulley. I got a reman alternaor from a local dealer who strictly sells alternators. he said its become very common that the ADP gos bad and then it causes the main bearing to go bad

only 85,000 miles :mad:
 

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The use of ADP's on alternator is what I have seen causing >90%of the failures. Alternators with basic pulley lasted exceptionally long. The ADP wear and squeal forcing replacement. These are not the only vehicles with them. They try and improve one thing and created another major problem. They are not cheap to replace either.

After all the work you're not likely to put the same alternator back after replacing the ADP only if the other bearing is going because of it.
 

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Awesome videos Guinness!!! :super: i hope they fixed this issue with the 2011s and up...
 

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it was the ADP pulley. I got a reman alternaor from a local dealer who strictly sells alternators. he said its become very common that the ADP gos bad and then it causes the main bearing to go bad

only 85,000 miles :mad:
How would I determine which has gone bad: ADP or ADP & main bearing?
Dealership just told me they want to replace the whole Alternator and I suspect it's only an ADP issue but will know when I get the vehicle back.
113,000 miles and 'noise' just started about 2 weeks ago.
 

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u can be almost 100% positive its the ADP pulley that has gona bad since that is what always goes wrong on these. with 113000 miles u actually are more lucky than most.

im not exactly sure how to tell u to figure out if its the main bearing or not but when i looked into just replacing the ADP it basically cost the same as just dropping in a new alternator with new ADP because the parts arnt cheap and u need some special tools to change out the ADP alone.

what price is the dealer quoting u for alternator/and install?
 

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The great majority of failures are noise related and the ADP and or bears failing. One may be causing the other problem but given the extreme difficulty in getting it out and back in. Knowone wants to do it twice. Yes a special tool is required to install a new ADP the they're not cheap either. I have seen low millage used alternators for slightly more than the cost of an ADP.

They're becoming a major failure point on vehicles equipped with them as I have seen here.
 

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so its not just the ADP on the compass alternator then? its the design of the ADP itself?

hmmmm makes me wonder how much gas its really saving and with the frequency they go bad if they even pay for themselves before they break:think:

FWIW i got a rebuilt alternator with new ADP from a local shop that deals strictly with generators/alternators. it was only few $$$ more than the ADP alone with special tool to replace it.
 

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so its not just the ADP on the compass alternator then? its the design of the ADP itself?

hmmmm makes me wonder how much gas its really saving and with the frequency they go bad if they even pay for themselves before they break:think:

FWIW i got a rebuilt alternator with new ADP from a local shop that deals strictly with generators/alternators. it was only few $$$ more than the ADP alone with special tool to replace it.
Most that have replace the alternator here as I understood the ADP made more and more noise and required a new alternator. One owner now gone from this forum and got an Audi now. He replaced 3 of them alternators while he had it. I have seen many alternator go 200km. I have and had several on my own vehicles but there was only a pully. My Jeep Grand Cherokee is one, an Caravan I no longer own (sold it after buying this and spend more time fixing the Compass than the Caravan in its 200k). Our Ford Explorer is good with its at around 180k. Non of these or any other vehicle had an ADP. With its introduction a noteworth fail point exists. I believe Dayco may ADP's and has a video on how it works. But who make the ones Chrysler is using may be very poor quality for a critcal part.

If you look under the hood or under when doing an oil change. There is not even a hard way to change it. Its a major job and very poorly placed in respect to the other items driven by the belt. If a pully only could be used in place of the ADP I bet that would be the last time you'd have to do it. But the right depth to align is required.
 

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Guiness... just wanted to thank you for posting your video on how to replace a bad alternator. I used it as reference and was able to swap mine out without any major headaches! Mine went out at 170K miles and was making a horrible "whirring" noise. Finally my battery light popped on.

Thanks again.:hail:
 

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I talked to a re-builder I used a decade ago. He indicated they tried an non ADP pulley on one car. It works but engine noise of some sort is generated by the vibrations it cannot dampen. Hmmm I never heard anything myself negative on non ADP alternators and my Grand Cherokee alternator is going strong with over 270km on it.

There was a member on the forum "Zacman" who went through at least 3 alternators on his Compass. He eventually gave up and got an Audi and was extremely happy last I heard.

Given the difficulty of the job its not something anyone relished doing twice. We should not even have to do it once with the millage most put on. The ADP is what fails90% and unless you also have crappy bearings in the alternator the rest of the alternator is 100% serviceable. Buying an ADP and the special took kit to change it make repairing it prohibitive.

The guy in the YouTube video hit it on the head when he said that failing with that low millage Jeep should put a recall on them. Alas they won't nor more that the weak front end joint failures which plagued so many. For all of you you'll be rebuilding your A-arm with the ball joint and tie rod ends at least once. If you take it to a dealer you'd better take pain killer before going in. Bill shock will hit you hard for all that front end rebuild. Its only a question of when not IF!!
 
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