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Discussion Starter #1
i started my car and the battery light was on for a good 5 minutes wtf?
 

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Re-think? Me-think! Ya-think?

When I bought the Compass, I was thinking, er, 250,000km maybe, did that on my last machine ('93 BMW 325is), but reading a bit of Zackman's experiences getting to 150,000, plus my own repairs in the first 50,000kms makes me think maybe I got to rethink may goal.
Ya-think?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I bought the Compass, I was thinking, er, 250,000km maybe, did that on my last machine ('93 BMW 325is), but reading a bit of Zackman's experiences getting to 150,000, plus my own repairs in the first 50,000kms makes me think maybe I got to rethink may goal.
Ya-think?
i am going to make a video i have video footage i recorded of my abs intermitently working ect
i have some free time so ill do it small documentry of all the bullshit!
 

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Could be a power problem with the TIPM. There is a lot going through that. A dealer told me they are going back to a normal power distribution box. This causes too many problems and its expensive component.

PS: I am on my 3rdTIPM. 2nd one was defective so the replaced it again, haha go figure. For those wondering its the black power box to the right of the air intake close to the drivers fender above the edge of the battery.

Someone on this forum said they 2007 had over 100k and no problem. Hard to believe with the history we've seen here. So far a lot of issues are focused on the 2007 & 2008. But that could be due to 09's like mine are not far enough alone yet. I have the poorly designed front struts but I had them checked and they're not leaking yet. I don't see these as a reliable design at all.
 

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Someone on this forum said they 2007 had over 100k and no problem. Hard to believe with the history we've seen here. So far a lot of issues are focused on the 2007 & 2008. But that could be due to 09's like mine are not far enough alone yet. I have the poorly designed front struts but I had them checked and they're not leaking yet. I don't see these as a reliable design at all.
Anybody following the PATRIOTS reliability issues, as we share so many components???
 

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zackman are you getting any codes? If the light doesn't go off after the initial bulb check or comes back on, there might be something there.

- Cherokee
 

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Discussion Starter #7
zackman are you getting any codes? If the light doesn't go off after the initial bulb check or comes back on, there might be something there.

- Cherokee
i havent seen the light since..... yesterday if felt like it didnt want to turn over it cranked pretty long.
 

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Could be the battery biting the dust. Slow cranking is a sign. If you can pop the cell tops on your battery see if the electrolite is up or not. A nearly dry cell will cause it and usually indicated dying cell. Most OEM batteries do last at least 4 years in my experience but better that than an alternator.

You can meter accross the battery a when its running and should be getting 14VDC or higher. If its below 13.8 the batter is very bad or the alternator is not putting out. Meter the battery with the engine off. 12.8VDC should be what you'll get more or less but 12.0 or less battery if the alternator is charging.

Regressing a bit with the engine running and getting around 14VDC as about. One by one turn on head lights, rear defogger, blower to HIGH speed checking the voltage across the battery each time. It should hold the voltage pretty much. If it really drops then the alternator is likely failed (diode pack failed).
 
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