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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone here have experience in replacing? From the looks of it, it looks like 3 bolts for the assembly itself and also looks like I would have a need to press anything out. I have probably had the issue with bad joints for 35-40k miles because I have been chewing up tires since then.

Thanks for the help folks.
 

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WOW, no replies. Well, I bought 2 lower control arms from ebay for 240 total. Maybe I will report back or maybe I will let this forum die a sloooowwwww death.
 

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I'll take a stab at a reply. If you know about suspension then you know that there are 2 bolts at the back end of the control arm and a ball joint at the other end. Depending on the model of compass you have you may have to pull the spindle to remove the arm. You will definitely need a spring compressor to control the front spring. You will probably need a pickle fork to remove the ball joint, if it falls out replace the ball joint as it's worn out. Replacement will be the same as removal. Don't forget to torque the castle nuts to the required torque.
 

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I have no ideas as to an answer to your question, but I would like to know what you encountered. I have a 2007 Compass and at 42k I am advised to replace the tie rod and ball joint on the driver's side. For US $500 the dealership will do it for me, but I am more of a D.I.Y. type of guy, not to mention that I am frugal. [Frugal in my case is spelled c-h-e-a-p!!! ;) ] I believe that this defect may be more prevalent than suspected.
 

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you shouldnt need a spring compressor, its a strut assy, so nothing i compressed unless weight is on it and the upper mound will stop it from coming off, when your suspension sags after you lift it, the knuckle will actually drop lower than the bottom of the strut when let go from the strut. the biggest problems with control arms are the bolts seizing into the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing.
 

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Good call 08, I'm used to spring suspension so it's habit. Tierod ends aren't so hard to do and ball joint changing might require a few specialty tools to get done. A lot of shops will press the ball joints in but I found that most of the time the bolts will pull them into place just as easy. I don't recall off my jeep but I believe that the ball joints and tierod ends are sealed units, I recommend replacing them with grease-able units. I know they cost more but maintenance on them makes them last much longer than sealed units.
 

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i was going to replace mine i bought the part from the dealer jacked the front end up. looked at it for a while took the bolts off, broke a pickle fork hit it with said broken pickle fork put bolts back on and took it to the dealership its not easy and i am mechanically inclined. i did the brakes and endlinks but i can do the control arm.
 

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shouldnt need a spring compressor

you shouldnt need a spring compressor, its a strut assy, so nothing i compressed unless weight is on it and the upper mound will stop it from coming off, when your suspension sags after you lift it, the knuckle will actually drop lower than the bottom of the strut when let go from the strut. the biggest problems with control arms are the bolts seizing into the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing.
I watched the mechanic at my dealership do mine . . . can't imagine trying it without the spring compressor . . . good luck:???:
 

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I watched the mechanic at my dealership do mine . . . can't imagine trying it without the spring compressor . . . good luck:???:
are you sure he was using a spring compressor and not a transmission jack to compress the suspension once bolted together, to get the bottom of the strut into place. i have never seen a spring compressor used to do a control arm in the 10 years of beng a mechanic.

i dont mean to undermind you, im just trying to visualize what your saying :-D
 

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You can use a jack to relieve the pressure if you're careful. I usually put a chain around mine just to make sure nothing unexpected that happens will hit me. That's why I keep mechanic friends too, don't have to know how to do everything.
 

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are you sure he was using a spring compressor and not a transmission jack to compress the suspension once bolted together, to get the bottom of the strut into place. i have never seen a spring compressor used to do a control arm in the 10 years of beng a mechanic.

i dont mean to undermind you, im just trying to visualize what your saying :-D
No, not sure at all...you are most probably right. - i2
 

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Thank goodness for this forum.

Waiting until Monday to hear back from Chrysler on approving repairs post-warranty. (I am at 39k, but timeline wouldn't have run out without the miles.) Dealer told me to replace 2 tire rods and a lower control arm. Plus, alignment, and naturally my tires are worn horribly too. Quote for the Dealer repair: $1,400. Yeah right. I just found tire rods for $40 each on Moog.

Gonna make sure Chrysler fixes this though since it's a known issue on earlier models, but apparently not a big enough problem for a recall...
 

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Collen, welcome to the forum....tell us more about yourself and keep us posted on the progress of your situation with Chrysler...........
 

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Welcome to the forum Colleen. Sorry to hear about your problem. If you have a good dealership near you that's willing to work with you, sometimes they will grandfather it in and take care of it as a warranty repair. Worth checking into. Noticed what I thought was a problem with my truck so I went to the most reputable dealer around seeing as how the one I bought it from closed. They couldn't find anything, but told me if it gets worse, I could bring it back and they would do the repair, even after my warranty expires so long as I don't exceed 40K miles since I now have documentation of a complaint. Good luck and keep us posted.

- Cherokee
 

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2008 jeep compass lower arms

I have had my vehical for over 3years, which i bought new and just found out i need front right and left lower arms....and 2 new tires...total 1114.83. I think this is crazy...they say warranty does not cover considered wear and tear but 3 different mechanics say this should not be on an 2008 vehicle with only 39,000. miles on it. I managed to get both front arms done for 550. and 2 tires for 200.00 so it cost 750.00 but come on i only had this for 3 years...where i had other vehicles for over 10 and never had to replace this before.......after this even though i love my vehicle i will think twice about purchasing another chysler/gegnas vehicle again.... hey what about the 9.95 lifetime oil is no longer in effect.....thats bull two.
 

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I hate hearing front end troubles. I had tie rods done under guarantee.
(But I did buy extended guarantee) and it seems if we have inherent week front ends something should come from the maker.
For sure they are not responsible for ruined tires but they should stand up for something here.
 

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McDowell..welcome to the forum...........too bad for your ordeal ..hopefully all be OK at the end........tell us more about you and your ride ......
 

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I just had the lower control arms replaced at a Chrysler dealership at 75,000km. It was about $900.00 for parts and labour. Next time I'll go somewhere different and get aftermarket parts put on, hopefully they will last longer.
 

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Value of warrantee

I just had my lower control arms replaced at 43000km - covered under warrantee.
Second front end repair under warrantee this year.
 
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