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Discussion Starter #1
So we got stuck in a deep puddle of water abt 3 months ago, the water reached up to the bottom of the door jams and water did end up getting inside the compass, we were stuck there for almost an hr and a half before we got pulled out but once we were out everything was fine till we got home and noticed a grinding noise when we got down to 45 mph and there was no more highway noise, just changed the brakes both front and rear and also replaced the diff fluid which happened to be clean and in good shape but the grinding noise is still there, i jacked the vehicle up off the ground and got the wheels to spin and when i got under the vehicle the noise seemed to be coming from the driveshaft that runs from the front of the car to the rear diff, note that the diff fluid was clean and just got replaced, it does it only when the tires are rolling at any speed past 5mph, doesn't make a single abnormal noise when stading still nor when stading still and having it in neutral and reving up the rpms, any ideas on what it could be? Thank you guys/gals
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Been a while since i checked this thread but it was the rear diff, replaced it and the noise is gone.
 

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These are not designed for off road and water. You want to play then you have to Pay.
 

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I definitely hope it wasn't intentional to get into water that deep! Glad to hear it's fixed now but I'm also wondering what the damage was $$ wise. Was it a specific part of the differential that got rusted and failed or how did they explain it?
 

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Its hard to say what the OP had go wrong. But for those venturing in deep water/mud more the the tire depth to the rim. Things need to be consider. Non of this first gen Compass like mine or I believe even the 2010 were trail rated. If you look in the owners manual and there is no section of fording river/creek you can be certain deep water is not engineered to be tolerated.

Ever Dif had a ven of some sort for air expansion. On ours its likely a small cap off the diff housing somewhere. You will need to remove the cap and replace it with an extension tube (neoprene corded) would be best caping it so it can still breath way up higher so that water and debris cannot enter. A cooling down diff is suck the submerge fluid into it easily. I doesn't mater on vehicle whether ATV, Suv, van, car etc there is a breather on each dif somewhere it has to breath. Rotors are far better than drum brakes as they can self clean and/or flushed much easier. If going deep enough for electrical plugs getting submerged then applying dielectric grease in them saves the side effects of contact corrosion.

Getting into that submerged situation is not good for anyone.
 
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