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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My Compass is now truly a high mileage vehicle.
It has logged over 290,000 miles.
Fortunately the engine and transmission has not developed any serious problems.

In one of my posts I mentioned that I am going to replace the engine mounts. I have started the process by inspecting them and I found that the rear engine mount has broken.

Today I will show you how I fix it. Now, I could have just bought a new mount because they are not that expensive but this time i will try something different. I will fix it.

I began by removing the mount. The mounting screws can be reached from the top using 16 mm socket attached to extenders. To make some room I had to remove the air cleaner box
The three mounting bolts that hold the mount to the sub-frame can be removed with this method. It's not easy because there is little room but it can be done. The thru bolt can also be reached using a socket and ratchet wrench. I also removed the aluminum part that held the bushing. It has 3 bolts with 18mm heads.
In order to do this I jacked up the car and put it on jack stands for safety. The bolts were very tight. So I used some WD40 and a good breaker bar and 18 mm socket.
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
After cleaning, I made a jig from a small box. I traced the outline of the inner metal core as weil as the main body onto the box. I cut the outline of the inner core and inserted it into the hole. I hot glued the core and the main body to the box so the poured material does not leak and also to hold the parts in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I prepared then poured the new bushing mix into the mount shell. It took 1 cup of the material to fill it up to the brim. No excess or shortage. It will take about 24 hours to cure. When it is done I will paint the parts then install them after drying.
Depending on how stiff the repaired mount turns out I might drill some holes on the bushing material to "tune" it so it does not cause excessive engine vibration. If it is too stiff the engine vibration can be felt on the steering wheel when the car is stopped and idling. Make a note of this in case you decide to do the same type of repair.

If it is successful I will do the same for the side mounts. I have not removed my side engine mounts because I try to fix the most obvious problem. I peeked at the front mount and found that it is not broken.

TOOLS I USED:
HYDRAULIC JACK
JACK STANDS
WD 40
RAGS
SANDPAPER
DREMEL TOOL
FLASHLIGHT
BREAKER BAR
16MM SOCKET
18 MM SOCKET
RATCHET WRENCH
EXTENDERS
HOT GLUE

If your engine bay happens to be very dirty I suggest that you clean it first. There is something about a clean engine bay that makes repairs much easier or even fun and enjoyable. I keep my engine bay clean.

Safety is paramount. Always think safety. If you are not familiar with or have no experience working on cars have a professional or a highly trained person to do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
oK. tODAY IS 28 OCT. 2019

The work on the mount is complete. I cleaned and painted the rear engine mount main bracket
I decided not to paint the mount itself because number one, there is no rust. Number two, to save time.

Though it does not take long for the paint to dry, it was already getting late in the afternoon and I want to complete the job before it gets dark.

So here's a picture of the completed mount. Notice that I put "tuning" holes around the bushing. The original ones have molded cutouts which allow for flexibility. My holes do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
After the installation I test drove the vehicle and I can tell you that it worked really well. There is no harshness and there is very little vibration coming from the engine.
The vehicle drove very smoothly and a lot quieter than with the old mount.

The following photos show my engine bay. It is clean. I try to keep it that way because it is much more easy and fun to work on if it needs any servicing or repairs.
Notice my battery post do not have any corrosion. No rust on the car chassis or undercarriage. Just keep it clean and sprayed with fluid film in rust prone areas.

My next project is to refurbish without removal the rear trailing arm bushings. I am noticing a slight sway of the rear end at around 75 mph. It may be shocks related but I will do a thorough inspection of the rear end bushings to make sure. I will post the process.


So two days of work at a cost of around 30 dollars is not too bad for this high mileage car.
I will rate the difficulty of this job to be around 3 or 4 on a scale of 1 thru 10.
If there was rust and a lot of dirt, I will rate it to be around 5 to 6.
I hope this helps. As usual think safety first.
 

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