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Discussion Starter #1
The LED-ing of all the things continues on the Compass. I attacked the running lights today. As seems to be typical with this little project, things are still fighting me, but the front turn signals are done, as are the DRL's, and reverse lights. The flickering fogs are also exorcised with replacements recommended here. Rear turn/brake lights will be done when I get another package of load resistors, as the ones I bought were said to be Canbus ready, and weren't. I wasn't able to get the bumper off either to attack the hot spot on the highs. Another day when weather isn't threatening. The left turn signal will need some extra attention as it's connection is sketchy, and I had trouble getting it to click into place.
 

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The LED-ing of all the things continues on the Compass. I attacked the running lights today. As seems to be typical with this little project, things are still fighting me, but the front turn signals are done, as are the DRL's, and reverse lights. The flickering fogs are also exorcised with replacements recommended here. Rear turn/brake lights will be done when I get another package of load resistors, as the ones I bought were said to be Canbus ready, and weren't. I wasn't able to get the bumper off either to attack the hot spot on the highs. Another day when weather isn't threatening. The left turn signal will need some extra attention as it's connection is sketchy, and I had trouble getting it to click into place.
Can you maybe write up a little how to on replacing these and how you added the resister and possibly where you bought canbus ready resisters and the LED bulbs?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you maybe write up a little how to on replacing these and how you added the resister and possibly where you bought canbus ready resisters and the LED bulbs?
Sure. I'll do one when I get the new set of resistors to finish the rear bulbs, then I can do some fresh pics at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
More LEDs installed

Thanks to Amazon Prime, I received the load resistors I needed to finish up my LED conversion for the external lights on my Compass. As promised, here is a little writeup on the process, including a blurb on the reverse lights that were replaced earlier. First thing to mention, is that the owners manual does go over the bulb type and descriptions on how to remove and install all of the external bulbs. Verify in your manual on how to remove and install the light assemblies.

Reverse lights:

I'll do these first. Getting to these is quite simple. on the hatch plastic, you'll find a little access panel to get to the bulb socket. As with all things FCA, this was really designed to be somewhat obnoxious, so just remove the assembly and bench swap the bulb. The panel pops off the plastic with a firm-ish tug on the GLASS side of the panel. Don't do what I did and pull on the bottom side, or you'll end up with what I did, and damage the piece:



Upon removal, this will expose a grey connector to the light assembly that is easily disconnected with a push tab on the connector. Once done, you can simply remove the light by removing three 10mm nuts, two exposed on the hatch body, the third inside the access hole. From there the light easily pops out of the hatch with a bit of gentle jiggling.



Once the assembly is in hand, you twist the black cap over the bulb counter-clockwise to remove. Note: Mine were rather tight and required careful use of a pair of pliers to turn. Be cautious if yours require the same. It did not require me to clamp hard on the connector with the pliers, only just to give a bit of added leverage.

The bulb in these is NOT on the CANNBUS system, so this will be a direct plug and play. Bulb clearance IS an issue, so make sure you buy something that will clear. I bought the following, and they fit, just barely:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CBZM5MQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anything that is taller than these WILL NOT FIT inside the housing.


Brake/Turn signal bulb:

These ARE on the CANNBUS computer. I recommend finding a bulb with the resistors included inside the bulb assembly. The ones I bought, the link made it sound like they were, but turned out not to be. Read their descriptions carefully, or you'll be either having to buy a pre-made load resistor harness, or wire clip into factory wiring - the latter of which will VOID your warranty on the electrical for the wiring to the tail lights. To avoid this and account for the lack of built in resistors, I bought the pre-made harness.



This is where things get fun. The brake light assembly is held in place by two T-27 torques bit bolts. They are recessed into the housing. You pop open two little covers by slipping a fingernail or small flat blade screwdriver to flip them open. They're hinged onto the assembly, so don't try to remove them.



From here, you pull the light away from the body by hooking a finger inside one of those holes and pulling BACK, not to the side. The fixture on the body has a couple of bulb-tabs that secure into sockets in the body.



There is another pinch tab wiring connector on the side of the housing that you can remove so you can bench swap the bulb.



The bulb, like the reverse lights are a counter clockwise turn to remove. These were much easier to open than the reverse lights, so tool persuasion shouldn't be needed.







Simply pull the bulb out of the socket and plug the bulb side of the load resistor assembly into the housing, and the connector side of it into the factory connector. These assemblies are a "universal fit" type, meaning they universally don't fit anything correctly. As such, mine are a bit loose in the light socket hole, but don't feel like they're going to fall out. By the time you tuck all the extra wiring into the space in the body between it and the housing, they aren't going to move anyway.





I tucked the resistors down inside between the bumper and body trying my best to insure that they weren't resting on plastic. They get hot, so use caution that you don't damage the plastic bumper from heat. I then set the assembly loose in it's space and tested prior to reattaching it to the vehicle.

Making sure all the wiring is neatly tucked around the inside of the car body and light assembly, simply push the light back into place, letting the ball tabs seat into their sockets. From there, screw the two bolts back in. A trick I used to account for the crappy access to them, was to stuff a bit of paper towel into the acess hole below the screw hole.



This prevents our old enemy Murphy from making the screw fall down inside the housing, and forcing you to pull the whole mess back apart again to fish out the dropped bolt. Keep a magnetized screwdriver handy to fish out the bolt if necessary. Once the bolt is threaded a few turns, pull out the paper to use in the next hole.

The bulbs I used and the load resistors can be had via Amazon as well:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JNHMP3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V61DBL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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AWESOME! Thank you for the write up and photos. I bought a couple of the CANBus resisters for my yellow LED fog lights (I had to put the original white bulbs back in because the passenger side kept flashing on and off) and when I get them in I will be installing them.

Fantastic tip on using the piece of paper to catch the bolt if it is dropped. It is very simple but I believe some people (myself included) that wouldn't think to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
AWESOME! Thank you for the write up and photos. I bought a couple of the CANBus resisters for my yellow LED fog lights (I had to put the original white bulbs back in because the passenger side kept flashing on and off) and when I get them in I will be installing them.

Fantastic tip on using the piece of paper to catch the bolt if it is dropped. It is very simple but I believe some people (myself included) that wouldn't think to do that.
Fog lights are not on the CANNBUS sytem. If they're flickering, then the manufacturer put in cheap electronics. I had a set with the anti flicker ballasts on them that flickered severely. I removed them and replaced them with a set that was recommended in the LED bulb thread, that has no CANNBUS anything on them, and they work perfectly.

I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHDYTGL/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may want to contact them and see if they have yellow bulbs available.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you. Is there a website out there that says what is on the canbus system?

Not to my knowledge. I think a good rule of thumb is that if it's a primary light that you can get a ticket for it not working, then it will be on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I want to give an update on this project. I am still experiencing bugs. Basically yesterday morning was the first run with all lights on, and I got the hyper flash on the right blinker, running light out, turn signal light out, and brake lights out on the DIC. I will be troubleshooting this issue tomorrow morning. So, those who are shopping parts, hang tight as I want to make sure that all is well before giving this thing a total thumbs up to run with it. I'm a tad annoyed as everything passed the checks the day I did the writeup. I'll let everyone know how things move forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I want to give an update on this project. I am still experiencing bugs. Basically yesterday morning was the first run with all lights on, and I got the hyper flash on the right blinker, running light out, turn signal light out, and brake lights out on the DIC. I will be troubleshooting this issue tomorrow morning. So, those who are shopping parts, hang tight as I want to make sure that all is well before giving this thing a total thumbs up to run with it. I'm a tad annoyed as everything passed the checks the day I did the writeup. I'll let everyone know how things move forward.
So apparently, the load resistor harness is bad that I used on the right side. When I swapped them across, the problem followed. I thought I found a broken wire and resoldered it, but it's still throwing bulb out errors for brake light and turn signal when the running lights are on. The left side simply needed everything re-seated and is working. I don't like these harnesses at all, but voiding a warranty on an expensive wiring loom is worse. I opine for the days when all I had to do was buy an electronic flasher to keep the blink cycle right.
 

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So apparently, the load resistor harness is bad that I used on the right side. When I swapped them across, the problem followed. I thought I found a broken wire and resoldered it, but it's still throwing bulb out errors for brake light and turn signal when the running lights are on. The left side simply needed everything re-seated and is working. I don't like these harnesses at all, but voiding a warranty on an expensive wiring loom is worse. I opine for the days when all I had to do was buy an electronic flasher to keep the blink cycle right.
Glad to hear it was something "simple". Thank you for sharing your installation and troubleshooting with us.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I officially HATE FCA's cannbus system. Seriously, this is dumb. I bought replacement load resistors. I tried both and I still cannot make the right rear side work correctly. I either get standard light or double light solid and the errors. I cannot recommend doing these mods until I or someone figures out how to either shut off the ****ing bulb out warnings in the car's computer, or stumbles on why it is just this one corner that refuses to behave in any fashion of a cooperative manner. *bashes skull on wall repeatedly* I don't get how they can offer a factory LED upgrade, yet those of us who want a simple 21st century bulb in place of the 19th century one in our modern cars are in effect denied without having a computer tantrum going off on the dashboard.
 

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I can understand your frustration. I look back to when I was a kid and how easy it was to do maintenance (change spark plugs, etc) and to do "mods" on vehicles. I don't specifically blame FCA (I blame the entire automotive industry) but it isn't about doing things better for the consumer, it is about making money. The dealerships make money off you every time you bring your car in for service (we recommend you change your plugs, your cabin filter, your air filter, the winter air in your tires for summer air, etc). Nothing is easy to fix on a car anymore and their so called automation convenience software/hardware is a crock. I would like to rant for a moment, I know it is cheaper to put round fog lights in a car, but I am old school and fog lights were rectangular when I was a kid and we liked them that way.

Rant over.
 

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I can understand your frustration. I look back to when I was a kid and how easy it was to do maintenance (change spark plugs, etc) and to do "mods" on vehicles. I don't specifically blame FCA (I blame the entire automotive industry) but it isn't about doing things better for the consumer, it is about making money. The dealerships make money off you every time you bring your car in for service (we recommend you change your plugs, your cabin filter, your air filter, the winter air in your tires for summer air, etc). Nothing is easy to fix on a car anymore and their so called automation convenience software/hardware is a crock. I would like to rant for a moment, I know it is cheaper to put round fog lights in a car, but I am old school and fog lights were rectangular when I was a kid and we liked them that way.

Rant over.
Now newer vehicles don't even have the option of changing the headlight bulbs, like on the new Honda Accord! Maybe one day we'll have to pay the dealer to change the windshield washer fluid...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don't give them any ideas.
They've tried. Remember when these torqs screws first came out? For a while, you had to go to the dealer to get anything done that involved removing that engine cover until tool makers caught up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What LED bulbs did you purchase for the headlights (hi/low beams)?
Sorry for the slow reply. The last two weeks have kept me from being able to keep up with requests like this.

The high beams I bought were these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074YHLFGN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These will be the only option you'll have as anything with a solid heat sink or fan will severely interfere with the back of the housing. Even these the fit is such that you will have a fight on your hands to get the cap back in place.

Low beams are these:

https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-Headlight-8000Lumens-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B06XHDYTGL/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1532127140&sr=1-3&keywords=beamtech+h11&dpID=51n6T98H0vL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Fit is still tight, but you'll have the ability to get these into the headlights and twisted into place after a long series of profane words.
 
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