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Discussion Starter #1
Do you have to remove any skid plate to change the oil on a Trail rated Compass? I have had mine on a lift yet to see underneath. I'm going to change my oil tomorrowat 2500 miles and rotate tires.
 

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I personally would not change it that early. 2500 miles is pretty low and many times if thats your first oil change the manufacturer may have a break-in oil in the engine. If thats not the case and you have more millage on it I appologize.
 

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2500-3000 miles is ok to do the first oil change and get the break in oil out. After that I'd stick to the recommended intervals and every other oil change for tire rotations. Not sure about the skid plate, though, I haven't looked underneath a trail rated Compass, either.

- Cherokee
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did my oil change after work. Put it up on a lift and found they have holes in the skid plate for the oil filter and drain plug. Lubbed all the rubber suspension bushings and rotated the tires. I noticed with Freedom Drive II that the fron tires seem to rub the outside edges more than my 09 with the Auto stick. I think it may be from the lower gear ratio and you have to push on the gas a little harder to get it movingand it scrub the edges off. Has anyone else noticed this. As far as the change interval I will now go with 3000 miles. I'm a former BMW tech and believe in over maintaining. My 95 Grand Cherokee had 181,000 when I traded it for my 09 Compass and ran just as strong as new. It had the oil changed every 2500 miles from day one.
 

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Good to know about the skid plate and I agree with you as I've always tended to over maintain my vehicles, too. Even my truck where the owner's manual says every 5,000, I was doing it every 3,000 for the first year or so but I commuted a much longer distance to work than I do now. Definitely no harm in a few extra changes as opposed to doing it infrequently.

- Cherokee
 

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I have a question regarding these oil changes that I've been doing some research on, but can't quite find the answer I'm looking for. I would love to do my own oil changes. But I'm not sure if I should because of the warranty. I've read online that it's fine to do your own as long as you keep receipts and document everything. But will that be enough proof if something would happen to the engine, or something engine related, for them to still honor the warranty? Also, would I have to use a Mopar filter? Like I said, I'm not really finding a clear answer on any of this. I've thought about calling my dealership but I would assume that they would be a bit biased in their answer and say I need to take it there. I'd just prefer to do my own oil changes (for multiple reasons) but if it's a better idea to take it in, just for the safety of keeping the warranty intact, then I'll take it in. I was just wondering if anyone had a clear answer for me as far as the documentation being enough and if I had to use a Mopar filter. Thanks! :wjeep:
 

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I've been doing my own oil changes for decades. I have never had warranty issues because seals or some leaks or needed repairs. You'd have to have a major engine failure before they'd question it. With the new computers in them. I am sure they can see logs of when the oil changes were reset (doesn't prove you did it though). Keeping receipts of oil filters should be sufficient and use above average oil filters, Wix is what I've been using (depends what the dealer charges for theirs). I tend to get other stuff when I see oil on sale at Walmart/Canadian Tire and buy several jugs at once. Rarely do I have oil receipts but I do write down on a blank page near the end of the owners manual the mileage I changed the oil at and reset the change oil counter even if its not come on. (important to reset it)

Good luck and enjoy, do check the CV shafts outputs and areas for leaks each time. I've had mine all leak and got them replaced including failed CV shafts etc.
 

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Ah, good to know! I wasn't sure how picky they would be about denying the warranty if something minor happened.
I will keep an eye out for leaks and things that seem loose. I'm always crawling around under my vehicles. :)
Thanks again!
 

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Ah, good to know! I wasn't sure how picky they would be about denying the warranty if something minor happened.
I will keep an eye out for leaks and things that seem loose. I'm always crawling around under my vehicles. :)
Thanks again!
The manufacturer cannot deny you warranty because you did not have mandatory service done at a dealer. You just need to do the oil and filter changes and it certainly in the owner best interest to do it. Other types of service EG Spark plugs are less sensitive or mandatory. I did mine late and did not notice any difference either way but 4 plugs are cheap enough anyway.

Stick to name brand oil and the grade specified and don't use any oil additives. Everything your engine needs is in the SAE grade already designed for the vehicle (5w20 in your case). Even with high mileage stay well away from high mileage oils such as Valvoline High Mileage oil. I use it in two Chysler vechiles I had at the same time (both over 100,000). I lost all the rubber seals and rubber gaskets in both engines after a year of use. I had them replaced and went back to regular oil and put another 100k on both engines.

Frequency of changes is better than trying to push it too far. I useually cut the OEM recommendations if half. They say up to 10,000 I do it at 5, they say 7 and I do it by 4000. I shudder at the thought of how the engine manages even afterwards. To me it looks pretty grim dark black swirls coming out after its warmed up.

There has to be a difference to the engine. Kinda like taking a bath in a sluggy swamp getting all nice a clean in that green dark water and then another day in clear caribbean blue crystal clear water. I am sure you'd feel the difference and notice the improved clean feeling.
 

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Which brand of oil do you use? And do you use synthetic? I've been trying to find oil that meets the MS-6395 standard. Since I don't have many options in my small town for oil shopping, I've had to revert to doing online research. I can never find pictures of the back of the bottles to read if they would work or not.
As far as the frequency, I think I'll be changing it every 6 months since the manual says every 8000 miles or 6 months. I don't put many miles on. I'm at about 5 months right now and I MAYBE have 2400 miles on.
 

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I use Quaker State mostly in this. Although Castrol and then Penzoil (usually synthetic) are what I normally use. I am sure you not that far from some big metropolitan area. Check flyers and or online flyers for sales or just pop in a look around a good reason for taking it out for a drive. I have my small auto parts shop order in my Wix filters for me since they don't stock them only the cheap made in china no name ones. All the current oils will meet the spec's the SAE # is what you look at. Currently SAE SN and I just had a look (for you, ran into the garage) MS-6395 is on the Quaker State oil and the Canadian Tire Synthetic I put in for the cold winter starts recently. The SN is the code for the standard and changes alphabetically every few years as specifications are tightened.

Don't use FRAM oil filters. I'd put more fath in the made in china filters otherwise NAPA Gold (same as Wix and made by them), regular NAPA filter may be ok as well.
 

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Which brand of oil do you use? And do you use synthetic? I've been trying to find oil that meets the MS-6395 standard. Since I don't have many options in my small town for oil shopping, I've had to revert to doing online research. I can never find pictures of the back of the bottles to read if they would work or not.
As far as the frequency, I think I'll be changing it every 6 months since the manual says every 8000 miles or 6 months. I don't put many miles on. I'm at about 5 months right now and I MAYBE have 2400 miles on.
Ok here you go research this and is documented in the oil table for you!! MS6395S

Cash Back Bonus Homepage | QuakerState.ca
 

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Oh, great! Thanks for the info!
No, I don't plan on using a Fram filter. I have never heard anything good about those filters.
Is MS-6395 the same as MS-6395S?
 

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Oh, great! Thanks for the info!
No, I don't plan on using a Fram filter. I have never heard anything good about those filters.
Is MS-6395 the same as MS-6395S?
Its likely and update on the earlier spec. You owners manual will likely say SAE SN oil or later or SAE SM which preceeded. You could email Quaker State there is usually a contact info link there somewhere.
 

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I just did my oil change today. I have been putting it off because of the low millage and 6 months has long been the acknowledged time interval if distance has not been met. It was changed in Dec with the new Penzoil synthetic made from Natural Gas (however that is done). I had another jug and thought I'd just leave the filter since it had <3000km. The oil was pretty bad looking and a close to black as I have seen. I gave in and put a new Wix filter as well after seeing that. I'll feel better and with the millage its getting will be changed for next winter early again I am sure.

For those waiting for their miles and 6 months or more since you last change. I would strongly recommend you get it done. Especially if you don't use synthetic oil as well. Its simply not worth the risk to save a few dollars. IMO
 

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Ok, my wife said yesterday the Oil Change light came on. It just ticked over 4000km. Oh well all winter and about 6 months since changed late Oct.

Its done now anyway, 0C outside today but no point putting it off. Rain or flurries may show up later this week. Its 130k on this now. I'll have to update my signature later on. My oil pan will need a tough up to keep the rusting at away I see.
 
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