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Discussion Starter #1
Title explains it.:wallbash: This is what I've done to troubleshoot:

- Replaced bulbs with brand new H13s
- Tested voltage to wiring harness. High and low beams are receiving power.
- Scanned TIPM with OBD scanner - no codes. (cleared anyway)
- Unplugged battery to clear/reset TIPM


That's about as far as I know to troubleshoot this issue. High beams work, but no low beam on passenger side. I've heard rumors of a fuse/relay for low beams, but I can't find any mention of it anywhere.

I've also browsed the other threads about this problem, but it doesn't seem anyone has posted their fix. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
 

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The switching can be done by Grounding the load(light circuit in this case).
You say you have power to the low beam socket connector?? If so with the light switch turned on the other side should go to ground. If off it should be floating at high resistance. This assumes 12V is there all the time when the ignition is on/running.

NOTE: The TIPM is a smart, solid state device with a number of protection fuses. Relays within are solid state and a lot is computer controlled. Unless you have bad connection or bad grounding straps corroded then it looks like the TIPM has failed.

YOU SHOULD CREATE A PROFILE THAT SHOWS YOUR VEHICLE BUILD FOR ALL POSTS!!

There is no point of reference whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, don't know what you mean by "the switching can be done by grounding the load".

Yes, there is power to both the low beam and high beam socket connector on each side of the vehicle. I also was able to test impedance tonight. The grounding seems fine. There was continuity on the grounding wire in both harnesses.

I don't think the connection is bad. I wiggled it around with the lights on just to see if the light would pop on. Nothing. And the high beams work fine, so I am almost certain the connection is fine. And me testing the ground confirms that I don't have a grounding issue.

I really hope it's not the TIPM. These things are like $400...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I were to get a TIPM from a junk yard, would I have to have it programmed as long as it matches my model and year?

What if I get one brand new?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey guys, instead of starting a new thread, I'd like to bump this one.

It's been a while (a lot of moving in the military), but I still haven't had this issue resolved. I am not even close to being able to afford $1000+ repairs for this POS module. Our Jeep stays in the garage at night because we've been stopped twice by police for the passenger low beam. It's freaking ridiculous that Jeep hasn't recalled these TIPMs for the Compass. I don't understand.

Any way... does anyone know if getting a used TIPM from a junkyard is feasible? What about a new one from a parts vendor? Can I just run it by the dealership and have them program it and then install it into my Compass?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SOLVED.

I ended up ordering a TIPM from Dorman (got it through Rock Auto). DORMAN IS AWESOME!! I paid $425 for the unit and get a $200 refund for the core. So $225 compared to the $tealer$hip quoting me over $1,000!!

Their TIPMs DO NOT require flashing from the $tealer$hip. I installed it in about 10 minutes. Turn the key on for 12 seconds. Off for 12 seconds. Clear codes (if any) and start the vehicle.

NOW BOTH MY HEADLIGHTS WORK!

Can we mark this thread as solved?
 

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Thanks for the update. Real sorry that nobody was able to give insight on the scrapyard ordeal but really happy you saved a boat ton of money !
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the update. Real sorry that nobody was able to give insight on the scrapyard ordeal but really happy you saved a boat ton of money !
No worries. Just in case anyone else is wondering, I did find some information about getting a TIPM from a junkyard. Be wary of this because TIPMs are programmed for your specific vehicle. Your junkyard TIPM might get you running, but you will probably find that some of your vehicle features no longer work (heated seats for example). You're better off going with DORMAN or another reman company, but I don't know if anyone else makes TIPMs that work out of the box.
 

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Check the ground on the frame right front frame rail near the engine pulleys. There are about 6 wires on one lug there and the corrosion gets in the connector and "opens" up the wire. Cut back till you find a clean non-corroded area. Then re-ground them all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check the ground on the frame right front frame rail near the engine pulleys. There are about 6 wires on one lug there and the corrosion gets in the connector and "opens" up the wire. Cut back till you find a clean non-corroded area. Then re-ground them all.
I guess you didn't read my post where I stated this issue had been solved. smile:
 

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Check the ground on the frame right front frame rail near the engine pulleys. There are about 6 wires on one lug there and the corrosion gets in the connector and "opens" up the wire. Cut back till you find a clean non-corroded area. Then re-ground them all.
Is this where the drivers side headlight is grounded? My drivers side is out and the ground seems to be the issue but unable to follow the wire.
 

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*tipm issue solved*

Had exact same problem as poster. Exact same troubleshooting results as poster testing the electrical light beam connectors. Found electrical manual for 08 patriot online(it's the same as 07 compass) and tested all circuits sharing the same circuitry as the low beam lights from the TIPM, as well as the grounds. All checked out good. Problem had to be with the TIPM. I also had other circuits stop working since an earlier date such as the sunroof no longer operating, and the rear wiper intermittently. After researching it the problem is that during some condition (ie. rainy weather) some circuits experience overcurrent. The TIPM detects this and temporarily disables the circuit, then re-enables it when it's safe again. After so many occurrences the TIPM permanently disables the circuit (ie. there may be voltage but the TIPM will not allow current to flow.) hence why the correct voltage and ohm readings, but it's not working. This is because the circuit is switched 'on' or 'off' by the TIPM (like a transistor or relay.) Each TIPM is programmed to the VIN number of your vehicle from factory, with those feature options specific to your vehicle. Swapping with another TIPM from another vehicle may cause you to lose features specific to your vehicle. (Internet tidbit: Take this with a grain of salt but I read on a forum somewhere that a used TIPM may be re-programmed up to 4 times.) Either way swapping your TIPM is risky. However, if you get a brand new one such as the poster did (or try your luck with a scrapyard one that *may* be able to be reprogrammed up to 4 times?) there is a procedure by turning the key such as the poster did (look it up first before attempting) that will flash the new TIPM with your vehicles programming via (if I recall correctly) decoding your vehicles VIN to enable the features that you have. However, before doing this, I was able to *SOLVE* my TIPM problem by going to the dealership and having them do a full-diagnostic check (hooked it up to the $20,000 manufacturer computer) to read the errors and clear them. For $100 they did this and provided a printout of all the errors they found and reset for me. I would suggest trying this first. This fixed both my low beam light problem (which started as low beams and escalated into only passenger high beams working - yes, once your low beam goes out the other lights get more current and start to get disabled as well.) and my sunroof issue, and my rear wiper issue. Everything started working again!

I fully agree with the poster that this TIPM problem is complete bull**** and that the manufacturer should have been held responsible to issue a recall, yet this issue is so hard to prove because no one has any experience with this. So while it is difficult to recreate this and record results repetitively as such is required before a recall is issued, the proof is all over the internet forums that Jeep has ****ed everyone without any remorse. Merging all electrical components into one unit to control them yet providing no way to isolate or fix the circuits when something goes wrong is a big **** you to consumers and shady of the manufacturer. Shame on them.

Anyways I hope this helps anyone who comes across this post and is at a loss as to what to do.

Cheers
 

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...the saga continues

I have a 2007 with a very similar issue, but I hesitate to replace the TIPM due to the troubleshooting results that I have discovered (USA, no DRL). My driver side low beam light is out. With a multimeter I have learned a little bit about how these lights operate. With the switch on in low, there are 12.2 volts on one positive wire and 11.2 volts on the other. When switching to high those values are reversed. That's on the passenger side where both low/high are working.

On the driver side with the switch on low both positive wires are 11.2 volts, and when switched to high one is 12.2 volts. This confirms that I don't have a broken wire, and I do have good grounds everywhere. I have no idea why I am losing the 1 volt necessary to illuminate the low beam on the driver side. It also seems odd to me that TIPM sends 11.2 volts to the wire that's not on.

I am considering jumping a wire from passenger side to driver side, but I am concerned that the extra current may cause a worse problem than I have now. Does this sound like a TIPM issue? I'm not sure. I tried the Mopar online support chat and of course the useless guy says he can help me find the nearest dealer, who would likely charge me $100 just to plug it in.

There are no current recalls or extended warranties for any issues with the TIPM, so I am determined to figure this out and fix it on my own. Maybe I'll just re-wire the headlights to a switch pod. At this point that may be the easiest solution, and then I could switch to LED without CANBUS issues as well!
 
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