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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Rear brake screech when cold. Attempted repair-failed

I tried to change rear pads on the Compass having got some good ceramic pads to replace the OEM pads. The always screech when cold and backing up.

Repair Failed...whoever engineered the caliper casting has the brake line hose so close to the bolt head. You cannot get any boxed end wrench or socket on it. (Have to be careful not to round off the edges) Even if broken loose with an opened end wrench (which I did after about 10 tries various wrenches) there isn't enough clearance for the bolt to come out. The hose coupler is in the way. It has to be removed from the caliper casting there by letting air into the brakelines system.

What a dumb design. Some engineer in Bangladesh or where ever must have engineered this, oh wait Fiat design mean Italians, I doubt it they know better. Unbelievable and this is easy to get at but cannot be removed as it should. I have pulled my share of calipers off in dozens of vehicles and this is truly the most super screwed up design I ever saw. :hyper: :dunno:

FYI
Its a 14mm head needs to come out at least another 1/4 to 3/8" more than posible rubbing against the crimp collar over the brake hose. I confirmed that by removing the lower one to see how far it comes out and becomes free.

:nervous:
 

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Your problem is easy to fix... remove the lower caliper bolt and lift completed to the top so your do not have to remove the top caliper bolt to change you disk or pads. My english is preety bad so I can take some pic if you want?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your problem is easy to fix... remove the lower caliper bolt and lift completed to the top so your do not have to remove the top caliper bolt to change you disk or pads. My english is preety bad so I can take some pic if you want?
Yes, I never though of that but hopefully I can pivot it as you should without something interfering with the swing up neccessary.

Thanks
 

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Yes, I never though of that but hopefully I can pivot it as you should without something interfering with the swing up neccessary.

Thanks
I got the same reaction of you the first time i try to do the rear brake on my caliber srt4 same weird system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I got the same reaction of you the first time i try to do the rear brake on my caliber srt4 same weird system.
Ah, and the air was blue. qu'est-ce que, fou, ils sont fous, Comment peut ils être si stupide et muet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #10
I am sure there are and will be times the caliper will or is prefered to be removed. Nearly every mechanic would normally.

This is a work around for design problem. It should work ok and I'll give it a go next week or maybe sunday. I have to go out of town. My wife uses this daily so I need to get my hands on it again. It make you wonder what else there is going to be a surprise fixing. That pully on the alternator is going to be more trouble than it helps for reducing load. If I had to do something I would if I could put a direct drive pully on it and never worry until the alternator failed. The engine certainly has enough HP to push a 130 amp alternator and given the locaton it not a job to look forward to.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I may be doing it today but the top bolt has thread for sure and needs to threaded out. The hose is in the way while trying to accomplist that. Swinging it up will not change that issue. I'll take pictures when I am doing it.
 

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I may be doing it today but the top bolt has thread for sure and needs to threaded out. The hose is in the way while trying to accomplist that. Swinging it up will f the ut ofnot change that issue. I'll take pictures when I am doing it.
The top bolt it's only a slider, so just slide out of the carrier.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brake Rear Pads changed

REATUNE Thanks, that was the ticket on these calipers.

I did find the brake hose quite tight trying to slide the caliper out to remove and move it out of the way. I got it out on the drivers side but on the passengers side it was stretching the rubber a bit too much for comfort even with the outer pad off minimizing the swing up angle. I left it in place and worked around it.

For those attempting his I'll add some photos of my own showing the pin and slid out a bit.

NOTE: There are stainless steel plates to be removed off the old pads!!! Both sides, one is on the inner pad in front of the piston which I overlooked and reassembled without it on the new pad. Also the piston really does not need a compression clamp to push bad in. I was able to do the 2nd one by hand surprisingly. I was so easy with the clamp I tried it by hand.
 

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The design is not a screw up. You are trying to remove the guide pins. But if you look again you will notice that there are two other bolts that attach the caliper assy to the axle. These are the screws that must be removed to gain full access to the parts you are trying to replace. Be sure to use posi-quiet pads made by Centric to assure better than new braking performance. They are clean ... very little brake dust. Virtually noise free. And don't forget to lube the mechanisms that slide with brake caliper grease. Don't let any grease touch the pad's friction areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Removing the guide pins is how every other vehicle caliper is removed to repace pads. The hose still in the way if you need to remove the upper guide pin.

I swung them out as shown with "Realtune" solution who also though they were screwed up design. The screech is gone now that I installed Ceramic pads I picked up on ebay for it.

I'll be cursing the again if I have to replace the alternator because of failing ADP pulleys Chrysler is using on them. It's got to be the worst possible place to mount an alternator. It should be up top as in most vehicles.
 
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