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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting out by replacing the liftgate speakers. Removed the tiny Boston Speakers, removing some of the trim, and replacing them with Pioneer 6.5" 180 Watt units.

Next up will be replacing the tiny stock amplifier but I can't decide which way to go, I have a 4 channel 620 Watt amp, and a 4 channel 1600 Watt amp. Either way I'll be replacing the existing sub with 2 400 watt units in custom boxes that I'll build and hide, one in the existing sub location, and 1 on the other side by the cubby.
 

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Would you mind me asking the cost on this project? I would like to replace the liftgate speakers as well. Is it difficult to do? Thanks!!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
not expensive, just a bit of work

I had the speakers already, from a prior car, but they aren't all that expensive, maybe 50 bucks. It's not too difficult to do, either, if you're handy at all. there are 10 screws that hold the back panel of the liftgate speakers in place, take those out, take the panel off, and there are 2 screws holding each of the speakers in place. Once you have them off and disconnected, you'll need to cut out the existing circular speaker mounts, drill 4 new holes for the new speaker bolts, 4 nuts and bolts later and you have a significant upgrade in sound from the back.
 

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I wonder how much of an upgrade the replacement kicker speakers would be. I'm thinking about going that route so I don't have to cut/drill anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Kicker speakers

Not sure - From what I have read the kicker system is better overall, but I don't know if it would be rated high enough to handle a big amp, or dual amp system. I had the speakers laying around and figured I'd give them a shot, and if they end up blowing, I'll add some better ones, 6.5's are easy enough to find
 

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Unfortunately replacing the liftgate speakers won't do much to improve the sound as the power being applied to them is very little. On the BA system, most of the power goes to the dash speakers, then the front door speakers, then the subwoofer then the rear door speakers and lastly the tailgate speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
liftgate speakers successfully replaced,
 

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Unfortunately replacing the liftgate speakers won't do much to improve the sound as the power being applied to them is very little. On the BA system, most of the power goes to the dash speakers, then the front door speakers, then the subwoofer then the rear door speakers and lastly the tailgate speakers.
pfft what? lol :rotfl:

its split equally to all channels theres no way to tell it to only put these many watts to this set or this many to this set. Its an even distribution.
 

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Starting out by replacing the liftgate speakers. Removed the tiny Boston Speakers, removing some of the trim, and replacing them with Pioneer 6.5" 180 Watt units.

Next up will be replacing the tiny stock amplifier but I can't decide which way to go, I have a 4 channel 620 Watt amp, and a 4 channel 1600 Watt amp. Either way I'll be replacing the existing sub with 2 400 watt units in custom boxes that I'll build and hide, one in the existing sub location, and 1 on the other side by the cubby.
I'd be interested to hear how happy your alternator is with the load from them Amps? The type of pully they use on them is a weak point in my opinion forcing a difficult replacement due to noise from the failing coupling. You'd likely have to look for a higher amp/hr or cranking amp battery that can fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'd be interested to hear how happy your alternator is with the load from them Amps? The type of pully they use on them is a weak point in my opinion forcing a difficult replacement due to noise from the failing coupling. You'd likely have to look for a higher amp/hr or cranking amp battery that can fit.
Haven't had time to install the amp yet. In Fact still haven't decided which one I'm going to use. The alternator is a concern, which is why I won't put both in, I was thinking of installing the big one first, and if I have issues then I'll replace it with the small one. I have the 1600W amp and the 1 Farad capacitor mounted on a sheet of plywood so I can bolt it directly to the existing mounting location for the factory amp, it will just take up more space. The other option is pulling out the spare and adding a 2nd 12V battery to the recessed compartment back there, but that would involve a lot more wiring. Hoping to get some time to work on it in the next week or so. I'll post more pictures once it's in.
 

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Haven't had time to install the amp yet. In Fact still haven't decided which one I'm going to use. The alternator is a concern, which is why I won't put both in, I was thinking of installing the big one first, and if I have issues then I'll replace it with the small one. I have the 1600W amp and the 1 Farad capacitor mounted on a sheet of plywood so I can bolt it directly to the existing mounting location for the factory amp, it will just take up more space. The other option is pulling out the spare and adding a 2nd 12V battery to the recessed compartment back there, but that would involve a lot more wiring. Hoping to get some time to work on it in the next week or so. I'll post more pictures once it's in.
A second battery would help buffer the drop but bear in mind that the amp will be running off alternator power primarily. You can't charge it anywhere need the rate you can draw power from a battery because it will boil due to plate design. I would look at the amps the amplifier is going to draw nominally and is that RMS Watts or Peak Watts. EG: 50 amp load at 14V is 700 watts which would be at at least what would happen if its RMS watts which I doubt.

Thats a lot of current to be pulling continuously to enjoy the music. You don't get that all in sound since there are loses. Simple math double it 1400 watts power drawn is 100 amps from the alternator and you'd better have a very heavy wiring going to it probably #4 wiring or better. NOTE: These alternators use an ADP pully and if they start to go you'll be replacing the alternator which is a real pain to get at and remove in these Jeeps.
 
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