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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone,

I have to admit although I just joined, this forum is awesome. Since I bought my 2011 Compass I've been scouring this forum just taking a look at everything. It actually recently helped me figure out the issue with the Alternator Pulley and the whirring noise it caused.

However, the issue I have now, I can't seem to find anything on it. Before I take my front wheel off, I figured I'd get some input if possible.

My car was basically in the shop for two weeks (long story). In addition to the original request of the wheel bearing and engine pulleys, they also replaced the left lower control arm, left ABS sensor, did an alignment, and rotated the tires.

Yesterday when I was driving home, I noticed a grinding sound coming from the front wheels when I braked at low speeds (20-25mph or less). It sat for a while, so although there was some rust on the rotors, I'm not quite sold that it's the issue.

When I brake from high speeds, there is no noise at all unless I am barely touching the brake pedal. I can't feel any vibrations or pulling, but when I brake at low speeds, it almost sounds like a scraping/grinding noise, but still no pulling or vibration. The noise wasn't there before the car went in, and the brakes were replaced about 2 months after I got the car.

The car runs well and feels good overall, and there's no pulsation of the brakes at high or low speed. The issue doesn't seem to occur until the brakes get warmed up either. It also seems like it's only happening at a certain spot on the rotor too, as it's not continuous.

I can't tell if it's a brake pad clip, a rotor issue, or a dust shield. What should I look for if I take my wheel off later and inspect? Does the caliper get removed during a wheel bearing install? I really don't want to have to deal with the dealer again unless absolutely necessary.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Hello if ur trying to check it out take ur wheel off and see if the rotor has any groves or has waves on it or warped that a good sign that the pads are messed up or improperly put on.
To answer ur other question yes the caliber has to come of to get to the wheel bearing.
 

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You pretty much have to pull the wheel and likely the caliper pads (up, as the swing up on one of the caliper bolts to remove the pads). The caliper does not have to come out to get at the pads or even change them. Inspect for anything rubbing or in contact. Rust can certainly be the issue on the edge of the rotors but won't come off without pulling out the caliper.

Its no 10 min jobs as nothing is when it comes to fixing these and if there is something wrong replacing a part may be the only true fix which you won't have.

It boils down to whether you want to spend a couple of hours checking it or have the dealer do it as it sounds like they created the problem and won't charge you.

EDIT:
PS: I had my rear wheels off a few weeks ago. A swish swish rubbing noise. All looked good other than pads gone down and will need replacing soon. There was a lot of rust build up on the rotors. More than I would expect. The passenger sides I tried to get off the caliper pin wouldn't come out even though I had it out less than two years ago. I took the corners off the bolt head so I could not swing it out of the way. I removed the whole assemble. the rotors had thick rust on both sides in the non contact areas. I cleaned most off with a high speed grinder disc on that side and will do the other one later.

I would say its extremely likely its rust influenced unless your rotors are new but I did not see that. No need to replace them just get the crusty thick layer off. Even the outer edge may touch somewhere if bad.
 

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Hello Everyone,

I have to admit although I just joined, this forum is awesome. Since I bought my 2011 Compass I've been scouring this forum just taking a look at everything. It actually recently helped me figure out the issue with the Alternator Pulley and the whirring noise it caused.

However, the issue I have now, I can't seem to find anything on it. Before I take my front wheel off, I figured I'd get some input if possible.

My car was basically in the shop for two weeks (long story). In addition to the original request of the wheel bearing and engine pulleys, they also replaced the left lower control arm, left ABS sensor, did an alignment, and rotated the tires.

Yesterday when I was driving home, I noticed a grinding sound coming from the front wheels when I braked at low speeds (20-25mph or less). It sat for a while, so although there was some rust on the rotors, I'm not quite sold that it's the issue.

When I brake from high speeds, there is no noise at all unless I am barely touching the brake pedal. I can't feel any vibrations or pulling, but when I brake at low speeds, it almost sounds like a scraping/grinding noise, but still no pulling or vibration. The noise wasn't there before the car went in, and the brakes were replaced about 2 months after I got the car.

The car runs well and feels good overall, and there's no pulsation of the brakes at high or low speed. The issue doesn't seem to occur until the brakes get warmed up either. It also seems like it's only happening at a certain spot on the rotor too, as it's not continuous.

I can't tell if it's a brake pad clip, a rotor issue, or a dust shield. What should I look for if I take my wheel off later and inspect? Does the caliper get removed during a wheel bearing install? I really don't want to have to deal with the dealer again unless absolutely necessary.

Thanks in advance!

Hey SkaTaTah,

TSB 02-002-14 may relate to your vehicle:

SUBJECT:
Lower Control Arm Cold Temperature Squeak/Creak Noise
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves applying Nye® lubricant to the front lower control arm rear bushing.
MODELS:
2011-2014 MK Compass/Patriot
2011-2012 PM Caliber
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built on or after January 24, 2010 (MDH
0124XX) and on or before February 28, 2014 (MDH 0228XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Customer may describe a creak or squeak noise coming from the front suspension. Noise
is typically more noticeable during cold temperatures below 4°C (40°F), noise may go
away when temperature warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just an update.

Turns out it was a bad steering knuckle. It was replaced and the noise went away.

Thanks for the responses!
 
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