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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here successfully added aftermarket amplifiers/DSP to an Alpine-equipped current generation Compass? Anyone know where the Alpine amp is located or have a wiring diagram? Thanks in advance.
 

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I have not, hard to believe you would have any reason to either. The mid-range stock system sounds really, really good to me. Better than any other stock system I've ever had, and I don't even have the Beats or Alpine branded upgrades.

Are you sure you've made enough of a tuning effort with the stock audio? I know it doesn't exactly offer a lot but even the basic equalizer on the radio screen gained me a lot. The other important thing I think that people overlook is tuning the audio output on your phone, when applicable. Not all phones have it but mine does, and I've made heavy, heavy modifications to the EQ on my phone to get it to sound much better with any speaker/system I hook it up to.

I've been considering adding a single sub anyways, just to get some extra boom in the bottom end. My plan is just to piggyback off the rear speaker raw lines into the high level inputs of a decent amp. That plan could easily change if someone showed me a fancy radio adapter with RCA splice outs but I'm not sure such a thing exists.
 

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I have not, hard to believe you would have any reason to either. The mid-range stock system sounds really, really good to me. Better than any other stock system I've ever had, and I don't even have the Beats or Alpine branded upgrades.

Are you sure you've made enough of a tuning effort with the stock audio? I know it doesn't exactly offer a lot but even the basic equalizer on the radio screen gained me a lot. The other important thing I think that people overlook is tuning the audio output on your phone, when applicable. Not all phones have it but mine does, and I've made heavy, heavy modifications to the EQ on my phone to get it to sound much better with any speaker/system I hook it up to.

I've been considering adding a single sub anyways, just to get some extra boom in the bottom end. My plan is just to piggyback off the rear speaker raw lines into the high level inputs of a decent amp. That plan could easily change if someone showed me a fancy radio adapter with RCA splice outs but I'm not sure such a thing exists.
Google Audio Control
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Google Audio Control
Not sure what that's supposed to mean. I'm quite familiar with Audio Control and their products. I've already got all the gear that I need. I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the Alpine amp so that I can properly feed my JL FiX 82 with the Alpine amp's channels so that it can sum the inputs, correct/flatten the factory EQ curve and give me a "clean" optical signal to send directly into my Audio Dynamics DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have not, hard to believe you would have any reason to either. The mid-range stock system sounds really, really good to me. Better than any other stock system I've ever had, and I don't even have the Beats or Alpine branded upgrades.

Are you sure you've made enough of a tuning effort with the stock audio? I know it doesn't exactly offer a lot but even the basic equalizer on the radio screen gained me a lot. The other important thing I think that people overlook is tuning the audio output on your phone, when applicable. Not all phones have it but mine does, and I've made heavy, heavy modifications to the EQ on my phone to get it to sound much better with any speaker/system I hook it up to.

I've been considering adding a single sub anyways, just to get some extra boom in the bottom end. My plan is just to piggyback off the rear speaker raw lines into the high level inputs of a decent amp. That plan could easily change if someone showed me a fancy radio adapter with RCA splice outs but I'm not sure such a thing exists.
You and I have very different opinions of what a solid sound quality-oriented mobile audio system should sound like. The Alpine system sounds better than the base system, sure. But it's nowhere close to being "great." Plenty of problems with it, for me. The staging and imaging is totally off and cannot be corrected. It severely lacks definition, clarity, tonal accuracy, range, etc.

Not sure what you mean by "heavy, heavy modifications to the EQ" considering there are only 3 adjustable EQ bands and they're more or less useless for achieving any type of correction.
 

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I mean what is your source and have you tried tuning that? My phone has Dolby Atmos sound and I've adjusted it to my liking, I like the way music sounds when played from my phone through my car. I've also adjusted the EQ in the Uconnect. I don't know what more you expect from a car sound system, you are throwing out a bunch of home theater hi-fi terms that as far as I'm concerned simply do not apply to cars.

15224
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I mean what is your source and have you tried tuning that? My phone has Dolby Atmos sound and I've adjusted it to my liking, I like the way music sounds when played from my phone through my car. I've also adjusted the EQ in the Uconnect. I don't know what more you expect from a car sound system, you are throwing out a bunch of home theater hi-fi terms that as far as I'm concerned simply do not apply to cars.

View attachment 15224
The terms apply to audio systems in general and are even MORE critical in vehicles than in a home. If you're happy with the way your vehicle's audio system sounds, that's great. Enjoy it.
 

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The terms apply to audio systems in general and are even MORE critical in vehicles than in a home. If you're happy with the way your vehicle's audio system sounds, that's great. Enjoy it.
I disagree, ever heard of road noise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I disagree, ever heard of road noise?
You're free to disagree. Countless audiophiles who have a passion for car/mobile audio would disagree with you, and that's fine too. It seems clear to me that either you've never heard a high-end sound quality oriented mobile audio system (as in, you're simply unaware of what's possible in a vehicle), or you just don't have the ear and passion often required to truly appreciate it. Many of us love the unique challenges of installing and tuning a sound system in a vehicle. Challenges LIKE ROAD NOISE, listeners' seating positions, speaker locations, sound deadening, space restrictions, etc.

To answer your question more directly: Yeah, I've heard of road noise.

With the right acoustical treatments, sound deadening and tuning, road noise is pretty easily overcome. With the audio system I had in my 2018 Compass (the same equipment that I'm planning to install in my 2021 Compass) road noise was not an issue whatsoever at my normal listening levels.
 

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@Swivel What I'm trying to ask, still, is what high quality source are you going to feed into this super-duper fancy setup?

I'm sorry I'm having such a hard time articulating my point/question, just can't think of the right words... but for example lets say I have a really fancy 7 channel surround-sound system in my home theater. Full receiver/amplifier setup and my expensive bluray player goes through the receiver before going to the TV so the receiver captures all the glorious high-fidelity, lossless digital audio channels/signals that the bluray movies contain. Movies should sound pretty good if all of that is setup and tuned properly. Now supposed I'm not watching a movie and I plug a headphone/3.5mm aux cable between my phone and my fancy receiver... its going to sound good but there is a massive bottleneck/limit on the quality of audio that can be fed out of my phone over this crappy copper 2 channel cable and the receiver isn't going to be able to do a heck of a lot to fix that.

I'm wondering about that same problem with your fancy car setup. You want to use it sounds like two sound processors to have precise control and tuning over each and every speaker in the car and I'm wondering "what source/signal could you possibly be feeding this system that would be clean and detailed enough to be worth the effort?" Audio input via Aux cable is crap. Audio via bluetooth is pretty "meh" (in this car). Even the audio through Android Auto is crap, I experience a hugely disappointing drop in audio quality with Android Auto vs even the factory bluetooth, but I'd rather have the ease of the Android Auto experience usually vs the slightly richer sound I get through factory bluetooth.

I don't know of any way to input really "good" quality audio from a phone/device into the factory system, hence why I don't understand why putting a hugely expensive high-fi DSP'd piggy-back system on top of the factory system is worth the trouble. Is the FiX 82 really capable of un-mangling mediocre quality audio out of the factory head unit?? I don't see how.. to me its like a picture taken with a 20-year-old 1.3 megapixel camera... there's no practical way to take and turn that crappy photo into a beautiful 20 or even 12 megapixel photo after the fact... so why would you throw it up full-screen on a 80 inch 4k TV?

I realize the analogy is broken but I'm sure its because I straight up simply do not understand some particular aspect of this. All I can picture is a fancier, more expensive version of the outcome where a 16 year old buys a really expensive set of Kenwood subs and amplifier just to feed his system with an FM transmitter connected to his phone... I realize this is not exactly the same but seriously... how can it be worth it when there is no way to get actual high quality source audio into the system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
@Swivel What I'm trying to ask, still, is what high quality source are you going to feed into this super-duper fancy setup?

I'm sorry I'm having such a hard time articulating my point/question, just can't think of the right words... but for example lets say I have a really fancy 7 channel surround-sound system in my home theater. Full receiver/amplifier setup and my expensive bluray player goes through the receiver before going to the TV so the receiver captures all the glorious high-fidelity, lossless digital audio channels/signals that the bluray movies contain. Movies should sound pretty good if all of that is setup and tuned properly. Now supposed I'm not watching a movie and I plug a headphone/3.5mm aux cable between my phone and my fancy receiver... its going to sound good but there is a massive bottleneck/limit on the quality of audio that can be fed out of my phone over this crappy copper 2 channel cable and the receiver isn't going to be able to do a heck of a lot to fix that.

I'm wondering about that same problem with your fancy car setup. You want to use it sounds like two sound processors to have precise control and tuning over each and every speaker in the car and I'm wondering "what source/signal could you possibly be feeding this system that would be clean and detailed enough to be worth the effort?" Audio input via Aux cable is crap. Audio via bluetooth is pretty "meh" (in this car). Even the audio through Android Auto is crap, I experience a hugely disappointing drop in audio quality with Android Auto vs even the factory bluetooth, but I'd rather have the ease of the Android Auto experience usually vs the slightly richer sound I get through factory bluetooth.

I don't know of any way to input really "good" quality audio from a phone/device into the factory system, hence why I don't understand why putting a hugely expensive high-fi DSP'd piggy-back system on top of the factory system is worth the trouble. Is the FiX 82 really capable of un-mangling mediocre quality audio out of the factory head unit?? I don't see how.. to me its like a picture taken with a 20-year-old 1.3 megapixel camera... there's no practical way to take and turn that crappy photo into a beautiful 20 or even 12 megapixel photo after the fact... so why would you throw it up full-screen on a 80 inch 4k TV?

I realize the analogy is broken but I'm sure its because I straight up simply do not understand some particular aspect of this. All I can picture is a fancier, more expensive version of the outcome where a 16 year old buys a really expensive set of Kenwood subs and amplifier just to feed his system with an FM transmitter connected to his phone... I realize this is not exactly the same but seriously... how can it be worth it when there is no way to get actual high quality source audio into the system?
Are you familiar with PAC and their AmpPRO kits?
It's possible to extract an extremely clean optical signal from the "premium" stock head units. PAC just hasn't yet designed a version that works with the 2021 Compass with the Alpine system.

My primary source unit is my Note20 Ultra → USB DAC with TOSLINK output. But I still want to use the stock head unit as a secondary source (until I replace it with an aftermarket unit or PAC releases a compatible version of their AmpPRO. And YES, the JL FiX 82 is quite capable of taking the Alpine system's amplified signal (or really any audio signal), analyzing it and then cleaning it up and correcting it within seconds. It then provides two channels of analog outputs as well as a TOSLINK output.
 

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[QUOTE = "Swivel, сообщение: 163119, участник: 89393"]
У нас с вами очень разные мнения о том, как должна звучать мобильная аудиосистема, ориентированная на качественный звук. Конечно, система Alpine звучит лучше, чем базовая система. Но это далеко не «здорово». У меня с этим много проблем. Постановка и визуализация полностью отключены и не могут быть исправлены. Ему сильно не хватает четкости, ясности, тональной точности, диапазона и т. Д.

Не уверен, что вы имеете в виду под «тяжелыми, тяжелыми модификациями эквалайзера», учитывая, что существует всего 3 регулируемых полосы эквалайзера, и они более или менее бесполезны для достижения любого типа коррекции.
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
Я поддерживаю. Я тоже собирался построить систему на базе Helix P-SIX и пока не знаю, как подружить магнитолу и этот аппарат.
 

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Are you familiar with PAC and their AmpPRO kits?
It's possible to extract an extremely clean optical signal from the "premium" stock head units. PAC just hasn't yet designed a version that works with the 2021 Compass with the Alpine system.

My primary source unit is my Note20 Ultra → USB DAC with TOSLINK output. But I still want to use the stock head unit as a secondary source (until I replace it with an aftermarket unit or PAC releases a compatible version of their AmpPRO. And YES, the JL FiX 82 is quite capable of taking the Alpine system's amplified signal (or really any audio signal), analyzing it and then cleaning it up and correcting it within seconds. It then provides two channels of analog outputs as well as a TOSLINK output.
I support. I was also going to build a system based on Helix P-SIX and so far I do not know how to make friends with the radio tape recorder and this device.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
[QUOTE = "Swivel, сообщение: 163119, участник: 89393"]
У нас с вами очень разные мнения о том, как должна звучать мобильная аудиосистема, ориентированная на качественный звук. Конечно, система Alpine звучит лучше, чем базовая система. Но это далеко не «здорово». У меня с этим много проблем. Постановка и визуализация полностью отключены и не могут быть исправлены. Ему сильно не хватает четкости, ясности, тональной точности, диапазона и т. Д.

Не уверен, что вы имеете в виду под «тяжелыми, тяжелыми модификациями эквалайзера», учитывая, что существует всего 3 регулируемых полосы эквалайзера, и они более или менее бесполезны для достижения любого типа коррекции.
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
Я поддерживаю. Я тоже собирался построить систему на базе Helix P-SIX и пока не знаю, как подружить магнитолу и этот аппарат.
The amp is located behind the small removable cargo tray toward the rear hatch (driver's side for North American models). The output harness, which connects the amp to each speaker and the subwoofer, is pretty easy to disconnect from the amp, and it really shouldn't be difficult to determine which channel each pair of wires gets its signal from.

That being said, I've decided to just replace the stock UConnect head unit altogether and replace it with the Stinger HEIGH10 with an iDatalink Maestro interface to retain the vehicle features, controls and settings that are normally accessed through the UConnect display's interface. This way I can just bypass the entire Alpine system altogether and have a fiber-optic/TOSLINK signal to send directly into my DSP.
 

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The amp is located behind the small removable cargo tray toward the rear hatch (driver's side for North American models). The output harness, which connects the amp to each speaker and the subwoofer, is pretty easy to disconnect from the amp, and it really shouldn't be difficult to determine which channel each pair of wires gets its signal from.

That being said, I've decided to just replace the stock UConnect head unit altogether and replace it with the Stinger HEIGH10 with an iDatalink Maestro interface to retain the vehicle features, controls and settings that are normally accessed through the UConnect display's interface. This way I can just bypass the entire Alpine system altogether and have a fiber-optic/TOSLINK signal to send directly into my DSP.
Very interesting information. But the Stinger HEIGH10 device how to shove it? Or is it for our car? I thought about a device from Ali Express, there are many different ones. On some, the standard functions of the car work
 
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